BespokeMe

Notice board: Click here for the New BespokeMe

2009-09-27T19:03:00.006Z

Click Here to be taken to the new face of BespokeMe

If you haven’t seen it yet, and if you’re reading this you probably haven’t, there's a new face for BespokeMe at www.bespokeme.com

Blogger has served us well, but there are things I want to do with the site that just aren’t possible in its current location. It’s a bit of a gamble, but ultimately the move to a new blog provider will allow me to provide you with a website that’s more useful, more enjoyable and more closely aligned to our aims and objectives – which can only be a good thing. So, reset your favourites to:

http://www.bespokeme.com/

The new layout provides for an easier read combined with bigger, more detailed pictures and quicker access to past articles and reviews. The Directory will be along shortly as will a post code finder and mapping system. The old site (you’re reading it now) will be here for a while yet –as I have to tell everybody who is linked in to us about the new address, but I won’t be putting up any new posts.

However, we’ll be reusing the site for an interesting new project to be added on to BespokeMe –and I’m quite excited about it. So, if you’re one of our treasured readers living abroad, or you’re the jet setting type, start thinking about your favourite bars, shops and places of interest.

Oh, and if you have any comments on the new site and layout for the directory by all means let us know, before it’s too late. Ultimately BespokeMe is only as useful to you as you want it to be.

So, if you don’t want to miss out remember to reset your favourites to www.bespokeme.com .

See you on the other side.

Best in Show: Mr Hare’s Spring and Summer 2010 Collection

2009-09-25T00:22:00.012Z

Mr Hare SS10: These are actually a Whole Cut with broguing

On Wednesday, by kind invitation of Mr Hare –whose rakish loafers I heaped praise upon recently- I found myself at London Fashion Week’s Fashion East Menswear Exhibition. Located at Somerset House, the exhibition was a chance to see the 2010 Spring and Summer collections from some of Britain’s hottest new fashion designers –allegedly.

Outside Somerset House

In a sea of dross and exhibitionist crap was an oasis of beauty, creativity, craftsmanship and pure style, which was Mr Hare’s 2010 collection. I have to say I can’t wait for these beautiful offerings to go on sale next year. Below is a sneak preview of what you’ll see in selected retailers next SS10. Not the definitive collection (I hope to put that up at a later date) just a few of my favourites, and something for you to think about.

Mr Hare SS10: King Tubby, a flat soled, blue suede Blucher

There are some designers who excite the fashion world, which by it’s nature craves newness and oddity for it’s own sake, and whose results are fleeting. Then there are those who inspired by history and old fashioned values attract the label of stylish. Then there is that rare and special group in the middle, who are able to produce designs which possess both newness and style all at once. They excite devotees in either camp; Mr Hare is just such a designer.

Mr Hare SS10: Sir Jablonsky

I love the idea of a blue loafer for the summer. For some reason I look at these and think long, hot summer evenings, a veranda and a tall drink. Worn sockless, with a plain white linen shirt and rolled up denim.

Mr Hare SS10: Victor Boa

These were the star turn for me. I'm a loafer's man by nature, and there was nothing I didn't like about these; whether it be the subtle broguing, the Edwardian slipper-esk form, the contrast of tan upper and white tassel or the elegant shaping of the heel.

You can see the ful collection at Mr Hare's Blog.

A Little Something Special: Tim Little Whole Cut Shoe

2009-09-22T22:34:00.005Z

Tim little Tan Whole Cut

The shoe above is the product of London’s own Tim Little, an independent shoe designer based on Chelsea’s King’s Road. Established in 1997, Tim has acquired an impressive list of celebrity endorsements, and produces some beautiful shoes. He has both ready to wear and a bespoke service. He’s high on my list of ‘to interview’ once the new site is launched.

I think these whole-cuts are beautiful. Available in dark brown and black, I’d personally go with these rich tan versions. They are single sole and made of aniline tan French calf leather. Without going into too much detail, treating the leather in aniline makes the leather soft and supple, as well as breathable.

The Dark Brown Whole Cut

The simplest things are often the hardest things to do. That is certainly the case with whole-cuts. The single seam (at the back) means that the whole shoe has to be made from a single, unblemished piece of leather. This is difficulty enough, but any scratch or careless cut during construction means the whole shoe is written off. You should always expect to pay a premium for whole-cut shoes, but these are a very fair price.

Most of the toilers and scribblers on matters of men’s fashion will probably tell you that brogues are the must have footwear item this season; I think whole-cuts are a perfect and much neglected alternative. An Englishman’s shoes absolutely define him; his class, his aspirations and his personality. Defining yourself with a whole-cut from some one like Tim Little isn’t a bad way to go.

The Full Monty: Baron’s of Piccadilly Duffle Coat

2009-09-20T19:54:00.003Z

The Duffle Coat was a favourite item of fiery British Commander, Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery, or ‘Monty’ as he was affectionately known. They’ve become a popular choice in recent years, and represent a less conspicuous alternative to a Pea Coat in my view. The name duffle comes from the Belgian town of Duffle, which once upon a time produced a very heavy cloth ideal for winter use. A good one should be weighty enough to keep out the cold, and the one at Baron’s is just that. Available in the traditional camel as well as blue, sizes are limited so hurry. But for £189 it’s worth considering if you’re in the market for one.

Sadly the shop is closing down owing to the Crown Estates decision to redevelop the building –turning it into office space and units for yet more tedious chain retailers no doubt. Baron’s has been located in Piccadilly since 1963, and it is like stepping back in time. If you think ‘Grace Brothers’ you won’t be far off the mark. Sales assistants still refer to each other as Mr. Upon entering you’ll be greeted by the floor manager who will ask what you’re looking for and then pass you to the relevant sales assistant. If you purchase an item the assistant writes out a paper docket and escorts you to the cashier at the rear of the store, who will take your money from behind a glass screen. It really is a wonderfully odd experience.

I may sound slightly flippant about Barons but I actually really like it. It’ a useful resource for hard to find or classic items, that can so easily be incorporated into a modern wardrobe, provided you have some imagination and a little style. Plenty of reasonably priced suiting and their in-house tailors are very good. I bought a suit there years ago, not only has it served me well it was tailored to fit beautifully. They will be a sad loss, and another lost link to a more genteel age.

Source:

Baron’s
210 Piccadilly,
Mayfair
London, W1J 9HE

All at Sea

2009-09-14T23:42:00.005Z

Apologies for the scarcity of posts. It seems that Grease and Monkey did want their families back after all, and so wisely decided to hand over the new BespokeMe blog. As such I've been spending my time uploading photos and posts. Sadly that hasn't left much time to write new posts. So I must ask for your patience. I'll try and get something up in the next day or two.

Added to this, despite it being the Parliamentary recess I'm accompanying the boss to the Southampton Boat Show on Thursday. Actually, I'm rather looking forward to this; it should provide some wonderful photos. If you fancy a day by the water tickets are still available. It runs until 20th September and you can book online. By far the easiest way to get there is by train, with a regular service leaving London Waterloo daily, and whisking you to Southampton Central in less than an hour and half.

Typical, you wait and wait and when the moment comes you find yourself all at sea.

Cuffed Mischief: Alexander McQueen Ottone Cufflinks

2009-09-10T23:48:00.005Z

Photo: Alexander McQueen Ottone Cufflinks, Oki-ni

As you may have noticed, I am not much bothered by designer labels. But just occasionally I see something that turns my head, and not always for explicable reasons. These Alexander McQueen cufflinks from Oki-ni fit that bill. Even better, they are currently on sale. My preference is for the silver versions above, but they also come in gold metal. Unlike most, for want of a better word, novelty links these have the proper chain link as opposed to bolts –which never look elegant in my view. The eyes are diamante.

Every season I write a list of bits I want to augment my wardrobe. I rarely ever purchase everything on the list; bills invariably take precedents. But I’ve been looking for that little something to update my black tie apparel. The skull has preppy overtones –largely as a result of being part of the emblem for Yale’s Skull and Bones Society- which suits black tie. Personally, I think there is something of the vagabond about them, which is why they work for me.

I’m not sure I’d have paid full price for them, but at a snip they might just be that bit of something different for your cuffs.

Renaissance Men: Armbands vs The Buttonhole

2009-09-09T07:02:00.008Z

Some friends and I were carousing in The Speaker recently, when we started discussing the merits of pocket handkerchiefs (pocket squares if you’re American). It was one of those pointless, yet deep, conversations men are inclined towards when blotto. Anyway, the upshot was that all of us liked pocket squares –and a few of us wore them- but owing to a Mad Men inspired renaissance we all thought they had become too conspicuous. This prompted a search for some alternative detail that might set us apart and afford some individuality.

Two schools of thought emerged.

The first, and most popular choice, was a return to the button hole. I have seen it done well, as with our man here on the Sartorialist. But pulling it off is difficult, and requires a certain chutzpah, as perfectly demonstrated by Mr Terry Thomas (above).

This solution has certain logistical problems also; namely, finding a florist to supply one to you daily. There is also the issue of cost; and finally, the danger that you might look like you were going to a wedding. Not ideal.

Photo: The Sting, Universal Pictures

My choice, and I was a lone voice, was for the armband, like those sported by Mr Redford from the movie ‘The Sting’. By their nature subtle and discrete, and even when you’ve taken your jacket off armbands permeate purpose, as opposed to being merely decorative. Aesthetically, armbands accentuate the biceps by both drawing attention to them and allowing the cloth to billow.

The counter argument was that by having your shirts made you didn’t need them because your sleeve lengths should be exact.

However, if you have shirts made of English cotton then it won’t be pre-washed and therefore pre-shrunk. This means that, unlike Italian cotton, it shrinks to a greater degree. Therefore, it makes sense to have your sleeves cut longer. Personally I find that even pre-washed cotton shrinks over time and always ask my shirt maker to cut them longer, or buy the longer sleeve lengths off the shelf.

There are plenty of places to pick up armbands but our friend Mike at Bromleys has them for £7.83. If you side with my friends and go for the buttonhole, then, for now at least, you're on your own.

Motor Racing at Crystal Palace

2009-09-07T22:21:00.005Z

Photo: Getty Images

We all have a moan about London; the tube strikes, the decline in civility, not to mention the increasingly dirty streets. Just occasionally we’d do well to remember what an amazing city it is, and was.

Now part of the metropolitan sprawl in the late 1930s Crystal Palace Park was the setting for motor sport; first motorcycles, and later in 1937 the London Grand Prix.

Photo: Getty Images

You can read about the history of motor racing at Crystal Palace here. Alternatively watch the action from the 1964 race meeting.

Photo: Getty Images

From the age of the gentleman racer; (left to right) Dick Seaman, Prince Birabongse 'Bira' Bhandudej Bhanubandh of Siam and Count Trossi. I found these wonderful photos on the BBC Website, and you can see more here.

What the Papers Say: Marked Men, Steve’s Appeal, The Old School Tie and It’s In The Jeans

2009-09-06T13:55:00.004Z

What caught our eye from the mainstream media and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.

Photo: Gap, Easy Fit Washed Denim

New York Times: I found this while rooting through the ephemera section of Ivy-Style. An expose on the growing appeal of Steve McQueen as a style icon. You can also visit the official McQueen website for a pictorial demo.

BBC Magazine: A couple of articles here. The first is on the ever evolving school tie knot. It seems some schools are in a funk over their students subversive tie knots. There are far more combinations than one suspected –our preferred method was a four in hand using the thin end of the tie. The other article assesses a recent trend for bankers to forgo their pin and chalk stripes in favour of less conspicuous attire. Could it be that if you wear stripes you’re a marked man. A useful warning, after all who wants to be harangued by a bunch of students moaning about how the taxes they don’t pay have propped up your bank.

A Suitable Wardrobe: Will reviews a new book by Eric Musgrave entitled ‘Sharp Suits’. Sounds like a useful tomb and maybe worth having on the bookshelf for inspiration.

MensFlair: I don’t normally read Winston Chesterfield’s columns –well not in their entirety. Normally too windy, this one I found interesting. He discusses the decline of GAP compared to the likes of Zara. I’m a fan of GAP regarding their clothes as a reasonably priced, reasonably well made blank canvass with which to do things. In particular, I think their Easy Fit jeans a god send, –I certainly wouldn’t buy anybody else’s.

Men.Style: A useful guide on how to dress to suit your shape. Most men’s books on style and clothing give the same tips, but this guide has pretty pictures.

Esquire US: I always prefer to read US Esquire to our own offering. Here they give tips on the five key items to sort out your weekend wardrobe. One day someone will explain to me the virtue of a Tote bag –am I the only person who thinks they look like a large woman’s handbag!

Adding Texture: Cordings Wool Waistcoats

2009-09-03T09:07:00.005Z

Photo: Cordings, Charcoal Grey Wool Waistcoat

I spotted this elegant offering from London’s Cordings a couple of weeks ago and it’s been on my mind for a while. Retailers are releasing their autumn and winter collections and most have a waistcoat or two to offer. But this is the finest version I’ve yet seen. In terms of materials it’s nothing remarkable. There is no overt styling either. However, this classic simplicity makes it stand out for me. Unlike lesser offerings it has the proper finish, including mother of pearl buttons and wedge waistband as opposed to a straight one. This last detail provides a more elegant finish. Fashioned from pure merino wool, it’s also very practical.

The end of summer for me means the end of the Parliamentary recess, and that means discarding the mufty in favour of suits. I’ve set myself the task of adding more texture to my business attire this season. I think this charcoal grey version will help do that perfectly -whether I'm wearing grey, blue, striped or checked suits. Although I think it would be an equally useful bit of kit paired with denim and a pair of solid Grenson brogues.

I’ve always regarded it as a sign of a chaps sartorial maturity if he add a little texture to his business dress. It’s a simple trick that adds depth and variation, and one the best dressed learn quickly.

Adding texture...

Sources:

Suit: Prince of Wales Check Vintage Bespoke from Old Hat (London)

Waistcoat: Marino Wool Waistcoat from Cordings of Piccadilly

Shirt: Semi-spread collar from the White Shirt Company (London)

Tie: Black silk knit tie from Woods of Shropshire

Shoes: Black Suede Whisky & Women Loafer from Tim Little of London

New Links: Beyond the M25

2009-09-01T23:29:00.005Z

Apologies for the scarcity of posts recently, Westie and I disappeared to the country for the bank holiday weekend.

Continuing on from the last post, I have some more links to add to the Directory. This batch comprises those stockists beyond the M25, whether that be online only retailers, those situated in far flung parts of the UK or abroad. I’ve either previously highlighted them explicitly or we’ve posted pictures of their stock. I’ve also included a few blogs that deserve a listing.

Outfitters:

Oi Pollio

http://www.oipolloi.com/oipolloi/shop/home.php

On the Fly

http://www.onthefly.com/

Orvis

http://www.orvis.co.uk/

Oki-ni
http://www.oki-ni.com/

Rodd & Gunn
http://www.roddandgunn.co.nz/default.aspx

The Vintage Shirt Company
http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/

Tres Bien
http://www.tresbienshop.net/en/

Shoes:

Only Redwing (New Sister site to Hobson, as recommended by one of our readers)
http://www.onlyredwing.com/index.php

Hobson (A useful source for Chatham Deck Shoes)
http://www.hobsonshoes.co.uk/index.php

Sports Kit:

Toffs

http://www.toffs.com/page/home

Accessories:

The Jewel Box (a source for Tootal Scarves)

http://www.thejewelbox-shop.com/en/mensvintageaccessories

Vintage LCD
http://www.vintagelcd.com/

Broderick (The only seller yet found of collar pins)
http://www.collarpins.com/collar-pins/index.htm

Blogs of Note:

Ivy Style
http://www.ivy-style.com/

Men’sFlair
http://www.mensflair.com/

Industribolaget
http://industribolaget.blogg.se/

An Affordable Wardrobe
http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/

New Links: The London List

2009-08-27T22:43:00.006Z

I realised the other day that I've been neglecting the Directory. While I diligently write up my finds and present them to you of an evening, by the time I’m done it’s often too late, and I’m too tired, to go mindlessly groping around in the HTML bowels of Blogger.

Looking back I realise I’ve found and highlighted quite a bit, and 90 percent of it is located in London –which is what we set out to do. It’s easy to lose track and I thought, therefore, it might be worth reminding old readers and showing new ones just what we’ve come up with. Looking at my list I’m not sure I’ll do them all in one night.

As a blog dedicated to the London man it makes sense to start with those suppliers based in London.

Shoes:

Classic Redwing Boots (also run and owned by American Classic, an impressive range) http://www.classicredwingshoes.co.uk/

Shofolk

http://www.folkclothing.com/men-shofolk.html

Outfitters:

American Classics

http://www.americanclassicslondon.com/ACL.html

Albam

http://www.albamclothing.com/

Ede & Ravenscroft

http://shop.edeandravenscroft.co.uk/

Folk and Shofolk

http://www.folkclothing.com/

T.Burrows

http://www.tburrows.co.uk/

Accessories:

Smart Turnout

http://www.smartturnout.co.uk/index.htm

Velo-re Belts

http://www.velo-re.com/

Sports Kit:

Rapha

http://www.rapha.cc/

T-Shirts:

We Admire.net

http://www.weadmire.net/

Connection Clothing

http://www.connectionclothing.com/

Dining Out:

The Providores and the Tapas Room

http://www.theprovidores.co.uk/prv.html

Roast

http://www.roast-restaurant.com/

A Deck Shoe Is For Life Not Just The Summer: Timberland Customable Desk Shoes and Lugger

2009-08-25T09:06:00.004Z

The agony of choice: Timberland's impressive custom service

I spotted this the other day and have to say I was deeply impressed. I’ve also had quite a bit of fun concocting my ideal boat shoe. A new service from Timberland online you can now customise both their deck shoe and the 3 eye lugger for only about £30 more than the standard price. It’s actually a very impressive set up as the range of choices includes everything from the basics, like the colour and combinations of leather and newbuck, to the types of metal used on the eyelets. You can even have them monogrammed and determine the colour of the insole. Whatever your heart may desire you can make it happen, which for £110 for the deck and £140 for the lugger is exceptional value.

No self respecting Englishman is without a deck shoes or lugger in his wardrobe, it is the default casual shoe. This summer has made colour a key trend. Timberland’s custom service gives you a chance to create something personal and original as well as remain right on trend. What’s more you get Timberland’s exceptional build quality, which many brands just can’t compete with. Get your design right and you can create something that feels right for you, for the season, and will let you set a dash for years to come.

Notice Board: Npower Cricket in the Park

2009-08-22T13:40:00.004Z

The ECB and sponsors of Cricket Npower have teamed up to deliver the open air viewing for the Saturday and Sunday of the Oval test in Regents Park. With the series level at 1-1 and England on the up it couldn’t be more exciting. You can get all the details from the website, and I’ll hopefully be going down with High Roller. If you remember the open air festivities in 2005 it should be worth it. There is no cost and if all goes to plan the atmosphere ought to be electric.

See you there.

Rakish and Rare: Mr Hare Tasselled Loafer

2009-08-21T08:22:00.011Z

Photo: Mr Hare

Like all good English males of my class I have the standard issue suede loafer, they are almost uniform. But as you may have realised my tastes are varied and I rarely enjoy being one of the herd. Sometimes one yearns for something a bit special, and to break out of the mould.

Which is why these beauties may appeal to you as much as they do to me. I have to say they’re one of the most beautiful pairs of shoes I’ve yet seen, combing an elegant shape with variety of texture, and subtle detailing –notice the off-centre positioning of the tassel. Their creator states that it provides a rakish quality, and I would have to concur. Visually it works in much the same way as a slightly crooked tie, providing what the Italians call Sprezzatura (stylish nonchalance, and studied carelessness). I see these paired with an immaculately tailored three piece suit.

The man behind the brand is almost as unusual as his shoes.

They are the product of new London based designer (and Arsenal supporter) Mr Hare. You probably haven't heard of him, I only discovered him recently, but he has garnered quite a bit of positive internet chatter, particularly amongst bloggers. Modestly immodest, his blog is strangely compelling, and yet at the same time he is a strangely elusive character. In not one of the few interviews he's thus far done will you find mention of his name. His back story is also interesting, and just the sort of thing I like to hear. Describing himself as “Just a man with a passion for shoes who feels let down by a shoe industry that doesn't really seem to care”, I have an affinity for the guy already. I love rebels and those that do things because they feel the status quo just isn’t good enough.That's always something that has personally driven me.

What also emerges is a genuine love of quality, which in an age where style so readily eclipsing substance is reassuring. His shoes are blaked constructed, which is the favoured method of build for the Italian shoemakers. It particularly suits dryer climates. You can read more in the interview with Steve from Style Salvage.

Sadly the chances of buying a pair are slim. Hr Hare shoes are hard to come by anyway, at present Oki-ni is the only stockist that can deliver to the UK. With regard the Mr.Genet loafer, according to Hr Hare’s website they are yet to be picked up by a retailer, but one can hope and wait. After all, everyman deserves the chance to put a little rakishness in his wardrobe.

Tool Up: The Valet Box

2009-08-20T08:46:00.005Z

Photo: Andersons of Durham, The Valet Box

Like most people I work hard for my money. Investing limited funds in a good quality wardrobe requires I keep everything in tip top nic. Of course it’s one thing to have all the right kit, it’s entirely another to look after it properly.

This is never more so important than in the case of shoes. Buy good quality shoes, treat them kindly and your journey together will last a lifetime. Fail to do so and you might as well cut a whole in your pocket.

Of course if you have several pairs of shoes it’s possible to build up quite a collection of waxes, sprays, brushes and cloths. Well a good workman always looks after his tools, and this Valet Box provides a rather elegant solution at a rather reasonable price. I think there is something wonderfully purposeful about possessing such an item, if not a little old school. Not too large or cumbersome it should fit into even the humblest abode. I found it on Andersons of Durham’s website, which I’ve linked to several times previously as a useful and competitively priced online source for solid Northamptonshire shoe makers.

Back to the box. Not only do you get the mahogany box, but it comes filled with all the tools of your trade. Sadly elbow grease is not included.

Dog's Bollocks Online: Adam of London

2009-08-18T08:37:00.008Z

Photo: Adam of London

I’m pleased to say that Adam Shener has finally taken Adam of London online. In fact I’ve been meaning to highlight this one for quite a while, but I’m a bit annoyed with Adam and was in no hurry to do the guy any favours.

The site offers the full range of his beautifully tailored suits as well as shirts, ties and overcoats. In addition to that, for those whose Modishness is a way of life, the site even boasts a forum and social network with which you can share photos and comments. This in itself makes for interesting viewing and is worth checking out. As is Adam’s list of choice tracks which you can listen to via a handy online media player.

I don’t need to go into great detail about Adam Shener’s suits, I’ve said it all before -here. Although with the Adam of London cut my advice would be to try and visit the shop first and then order subsequent items online.

On some of the websites pages you may notice the wording and layout of a lot of the text is very similar to my review. When Adam and his guys were putting the site together he asked if he could use my review and some of my photos. I was naturally happy to oblige, and initially flattered. Sadly I didn’t realise just how they were going to use them. Without acknowledgment or even that basic internet courtesy -a link- it doesn’t necessarily make me look good. But rest assured BespokeMe doesn’t reproduce other peoples’ press releases or buy their bullshit.

A welcome addition to the internet and one well worth checking out, the written material is pretty good too...

What the Papers Say: Glen Check, The Power of Thomas Crown, Interview With A Duffer and One For The Albam

2009-08-16T14:03:00.004Z

What caught our eye from the mainstream media and the blogosphere, for an alternative Sunday read.

Esquire: Interesting little piece from their bespoke column providing a history of the Glen Check, or Prince of Wales check as it’s more commonly known. I just love knowing crap like this. One for the knowledge bank.

The Rake: A rather interesting article on the enduring influence on men’s style of 1968 Steve McQueen film The Thomas Crown Affair. This is a newish publication produced just 6 times a year. $30 an issue or $130 for a year's subscription it aims to be one of those hyper elitist magazines. But whereas most turn out to be pretentious dross, and soon die a death, this one does at least show promise. Its mission statement certainly strikes a cord with me, but at only four issues old it might be too soon to say. One day some driven genius will create a magazine so elitist there won’t be anybody qualified enough to write it, or perfect enough to read it.

The BBC: There is an ever grow breed of farty, sweaty, grot filled Englishmen for whom even the merest formality when it comes to dressing is too much to ask. Sadly the new Speaker of the House of Commons has decided to join their swelling ranks; presumably out of some misguided sense of modernity and at oneness with the ordinary people. God save us from the relentless march of the ordinary.

Industribolaget: This blog is one of my daily reads; well it would be if I could understand a word of it. It’s all in Polish (Swedish, I've just been told), but don’t let that put you off. As a look book it’s quite useful. The chap has a good eye.

Selectism: A couple of interesting interviews; the first is with Marco Cairns, one of the creators behind The Duffer of St. George; and the second with James Shaw one of the co-founders of Albam. Both are London based labels one having already met with great commercial success, and the other certainly on the way to it. I find articles like this fascinating, partly because I am a natural historian, and find personal and commercial history just as interesting as any other kind. Interviews like this also give a clue as to what you’re buying into. Almost all though show the power of having a dream, and that the road to making such dreams real is often haphazard. Something reassuring in that, particularly for one who is currently toying with the idea of producing his own clothes as I am.

How to: Tell A Tartan From Check

2009-08-15T11:39:00.004Z

Because there are some things a chap ought to know...

Check or Tartan?

While fiddling with the last post I made the mistake of wondering what the difference was between a check and a Tartan. Given the prevalence of both for shirting options this season, and the cultural connotations it seemed relevant. And of course having asked the question I had to answer it –which was no mean feat.

The logical place to start seemed the Scottish Register of Tartans Act 2008 (yes, there is such a thing), which defines Tartan thus;

“For the purposes of this Act, a tartan is a design which is capable of being wovenconsisting of two or more alternating coloured stripes which combine vertically andhorizontally to form a repeated chequered pattern”.

That leaves as much unsaid as it clarifies, and for good reason it seems.

I contacted Keith Lumsden of the Scottish Tartans World Register, which was established in to catalogue all the various Tartans in the world. He made the point that “they [Tartans and Checks] over lap, so a definition would limit there use in one direction or another. There are tartans called checks that one would consider tartans, such as Burberry Check. And there are tartans called checks such as Burns Heritage Check and Buccleuch Check/Haig that look like checks. I see it as more to do with what the cultural use of the textile design will be. There may also be marketing reason to call the design a check. People have hang ups about who may use a tartan thus Burberry called theirs a check”. He also pointed out that a large area of checks is the "Estate Tweeds/Checks". These are not tartans, although some could be used as such. It is their function that stops them being called tartans.

However, Matthew Newsome, Director of the Scottish Tartans Museum, believes there is a correct definition; “Technically, the difference between a "check" and a "tartan" is that the tartan will contain half tones, or third colours, where the colours blend, and the check will just have colour next to colour with no blending. That's the technical difference”. This would certainly help get around the problem of Estate Checks and even defining Gingham.

The Scottish Tartans Museum is a curious group based in the States, so perhaps not the first port of call for a definition of Tartan. But as any student of British imperial history will know, there is nothing more relentless than an American with a cause. These guys probably now more than most Scottish experts, taking their heritage very seriously.

Matthew expands on the point made by Keith Lumsden: “in common parlance, "check" is often used to refer to a tartan of very simple design. For instance, if someone asked, "What does the Rob Roy tartan look like?" the likely answer would be, "It's a simple red and black check," even though that is not technically correct”.

Simply put, many people mistakenly refer to any and all tartans as "checks" even if the tartan is not characteristically simple in design, and the most prolific offenders are those in the fashion industry. The key seems to be whether the use of two or more threads and the weave generate half tones of colour; if they do then whether the clothing label refers to it as a check or not it is most likely a Tartan. The only reason to avoid the use of the term Tartan is cultural and psychological.

So what have we learnt? Not a lot, other than by neglect or design you probably own some Tartan.

Catwalk Capital: Flash the Tartan

2009-08-11T00:10:00.008Z

I’ve often thought Tartan transcended its basic Scottish roots. Given the long, interconnected and previously bloody history of England and Scotland, its adoption is as much an act of subversion against the English establishment –and good form- as it is a celebration of Scottish ancestry. This of course explains its popularity amongst subcultures without Scottish connection. What would a Mods Harrington be without its tartan lining, or the world of American Ivy League and prep without the Tartan Blazer; and if you think of punk you most likely think of tartan trousers and braces. Whether Scottish or not, to wear it not only adds colour and depth to a look, but is a personal statement of independence.

Unless you’re a jock, or Rod Stewart, it’s best to keep your Tartan to a mere flash –less is more. I am an Englishman, and proud to be so, and devoutly practice what I preach. My preferred method of use is a pocket square, or the inexpensive cotton tie (below), picked up from vintage shop Retromania, in Pimlico.

Vintage Digital: Vintage LCD and PockeCalculatorShow.com

2009-08-07T11:10:00.004Z

The Casio AE-11W an 80s classic

The watch above is a Casio AE-11W and when I was kid it was the watch to have. I thought then, as I do now, that it was a great piece of design. Sadly, my own went walk about many years ago, but I’ve had it in mind for the last few months and have being trying to track one down. In the age of ipods, iphones and digital cameras it’s easy to forget just what digital watches represented in their day. Indeed, they might seem almost naff now, but then they were the white heat of technology in miniature.

Now, I have high quality, old fashioned analogue watches, but what I’m looking for is a bit of casual retro. There are plenty of new digital watches about, including rereleased versions of the classics. But I reckon if you’re going to go digital then go retro and buy yourself the genuine article.

The fact that this particular watch has been so hard to come by only seems to drive me on. I never did know when I was beaten. And that’s probably a very good thing, certainly in this case.

In my search I came across this interesting website, network and forum called Pocketcalculatorshow.com. It describes itself as a discussion forum for digital watch nerds and has a few items for sale as well as pictures of long gone tech. Well, I’m not a nerd but where it’s useful is posting wanted notices in the Forum. I did just that and within an hour someone got back to me. The person in question, called Adam, has just launched a website called Vintage LCD which sells vintage digital watches and parts. Although the example on offer isn’t quite what I’m after it’s close enough for now.

So if you fancy a bit of vintage digital you can save yourself some time and effort with VintageLCD and Pocketcalculatorshow.com

The Jewel Box: Vintage Tootal Scarves

2009-08-05T22:40:00.007Z

Tootal Scarf from The Jewel Box

An odd time to bring up Tootal scarves I know, but today I was contacted by Carol who wanted to introduce herself, and highlight the Tootal and Sammy scarves she’d added to her stock. And some nice examples she has found too.

Tootal from The Jewel Box

Her website’s called The Jewel Box, and is a specialist seller or vintage jewellery, silk and hand bags, which clues you into the fact that its main market is women. However, as a source of Tootal scarves it’s worth remembering. Prices seem competitive and Carol supplies all the measurements and some detailed photos.

I wouldn't normally recommend something without testing it first. But I've had a thorough look through the site, and you can even read about Carol on her blog, so nothing to worry about here.

Tootal Scarf from The Jewel Box

You may recall I’ve highlighted Tootal a couple of times, and you can re-read our ‘history of’ here. Suffice to say, bold paisleys are Tootal’s signature design, which is why I rather like these subtler alternatives. Solid, unfussy and masculine in tone, while retaining that Tootal vibrancy of colour, any one of these three would sit as comfortably under a Covert Coat as they would a Harrington.

Notice Board: The Great British Beer Festival, 4th -8th August

2009-08-03T19:46:00.004Z

My pint of choice

Despite the fading of our imperial glory, there is still one area were we rein supreme, the brewing of beer. If you doubt me I advise a trip Down Under, or worse still to America. Despite being capable of putting a man on the moon our cousins across the pond can’t put water and hops together, in any meaningful sense, for love nor money.

Tomorrow is the start of the Great British Beer Festival at Earls Court, and provides a chance to sample some of this Sceptred Isle’s liquid gold. Running until Saturday, with over 450 beers to sample not to mention tutorials, live music and food, tickets start from £8 and are available on the door. If you want to you can pre-book your tickets. Beers are available by the pint, half pint and third of a pint. If you want more details the website gives you all you need, including booking service and times for tutorials. You can even print off lists of beers to try and take it with you, should the spirit be willing but the memory wanting.

I was hoping to go down there on Thursday and exercise the laughing gear. Sadly I’ve come down with a dose of something, and while I’m fully persuaded of the restorative powers of hops and water when brewed by a master it doesn’t seem fair on everybody else.

Catwalk Capital: The Short Mac

2009-08-02T18:08:00.011Z

With little evidence to the contrary, it would seem that the English summer is all but over. Certainly, yesterday’s rain made me think of raincoats.

The short raincoat is something worth thinking about for the season ahead. The standard three-quarter length coat really only suits formal wear, but short versions work well with anything.

The autumn and winter collections aren’t out yet, but it’s something I will be looking to find.

The Decline and Fall of the English Summer ...

Hat: Mistral Cotton Hat at Lock & Co

Jacket: Barbour Oxford Hardy Jacket at Barbour (on Sale)

Shirt: Seven Continents Flight Shirt at Orvis

Jeans: Twill Jeans (made in England) at Cordings

Belt: Velo-re Belt at www.velo-re.com

Boots: Fracap Japan Mountaineering Boots at Oki-ni (only available at Oki-ni in the UK)

Bag: Jeremy Stripy at Ally Capellino

Battle Royal Part III: The Ashes Third Test

2009-07-29T18:32:00.022Z

After England’s unexpected, yet convincing, victory over Australia at Lords in the Second Test, we have the makings of another classic Ashes ding-dong tomorrow.

While I have no doubt the Aussies will come back with fire in their belly we have at least a contest, and not the supposed walkover that many an Aussie pundit predicted.
Of course the fact the both sides play to a different level in an Ashes series –with each referring to the other as the old enemy- is what makes this one of history’s enduring and exciting sporting contests. Viewed by millions all over the world –the majority non-British and non-Australian- it’s akin to watching Wellington and Napoleon re-fight Waterloo every two years.

If you’re new to the game, this tournament, or even if your Ashes history is a little hazy, then The Wisden Cricketer’s Story of the Ashes could be just the thing for you. Likewise, should you find yourself in the company of Australians during the contest, you might find it helpful fighting your corner. As any Englishman will testify, before being given their passport and exit visa all Australian males are required by statute to know the year and outcome of every Aussie Ashes victory since 1882.

I spotted it in the WHSmith at Victoria on Friday night, and had just time enough to flick through and grab a copy before my train departed. It charts England and Australia’s 133-year rivalry through the eyes of the writers who were there. It provides both histories to special series as well players of note, like the Don. CMJ writes in his foreword “This book will please both those with a deep knowledge of the Ashes and those for whom much of the story is new… and what a story it is too”.

While being more at home with history than fiction, I wouldn’t normally read something on sport. But, I’ve enjoyed this well sourced read (or bookazine as the trade term it). At £7.99 and a light read, with plenty of photos, it might be just the thing to get you in the spirit.

A Day at the Cricket....

Lords:

Your Local Ground...

Tomorrow at Edgbaston.... lunch and a good costumier

Photo: Birmingham Mail

Lords Kit:

Sunglasses: Persol at Oi Pollio

Suit: Beige Linen at Adam of London

Shirt: Button Down, Double Cuff, Sky Blue, Cotton Shirt at Adam of London

Tie: Ivory and Spot Tie at Drakes of London (on Sale)

Shoes: Grenson Cognac Radley at Anderson of Durham

Radio: Roberts Sports 988 Compact Radio at John Lewis

Bins: Bresser Wide Field Binoculars at Scopesandskies.com

Local Kit:

Sunglasses: Fox The Injection Bright Chrome at sunglasses-shop.co.uk

Jersey: V Neck T at Albam

Jeans: GBR Atlantic Challenge Trousers at Crew (on Sale)

Shoes: ShoFolk Alaric Navy Suede Shoe With Rubber Sole at sixwhitingstreet.co.uk (on Sale)

The Great White….Shirt

2009-07-27T21:05:00.012Z

I haven’t done one of these for a while, but then I haven’t really been looking. This white shirt from Ede & Ravenscroft might just be a contender. I spotted it surfing around their website while compiling yesterday’s post.

On sale at £39.50 and plenty of sizes in stock, it is certainly worth a punt. A company well known for quality kit it strikes me as a very good price; and a chap can never have too many white shirts. With a nice looking spread to the collar you can be assured of a traditional fit and unfused construction.

They also have a cream version, also at £39.50. If you’re prone to wear grey suits, cream is an ideal colour match. I’ve often thought white can look too stark against grey, and make the wearer look washed out –particularly if you have pale skin. This tie would go wonderfully; the cream shirt, a grey suit and these Cognac Radley Grenson Shoes.

I have yet to add their shirts to my wardrobe, but sale time provides a perfect opportunity to try something new, without risking too much.

Online Sources: The Vintage Shirt Company

2009-07-26T18:44:00.021Z

Old School Cricket Shirt from The Vintage Shirt Company

In yesterday’s post on the Oxford Sport Nubuck, I briefly put a link to an Old School Cricket Shirt from the Vintage Shirt Company. I thought the website worth a quick mention in its own right.

Essentially set up to cater to the film, TV and Theatrical worlds they produce detailed and high quality reproductions of clothing from various eras. This may sound like an odd recommendation, but they are a great, well priced resource for some hard to come by kit –like our aforementioned cricket shirt. Another prime example is their range of stiff collars, suitable for evening dress, and of course those in the English legal profession. The prices are comparable to more traditional outlets –like Ede & Ravenscroft- but they offer proper high wing collars ranging from just under 2inches, to 2 and a half inches.

I never wear wing collars for black tie these days, because even the detachable versions have neck bands which are too narrow. Consequently they look untidy and invariably the bow tie slips off the band.

There are lots of other bits that can be used or you might find useful from top hats and Marcella waistcoats (cheaper than any other stockist) to this rather relaxed Cotton Drill Jacket reminiscent of the 1950s.

Returning to our Old School Cricket Shirt, I really like the quarter length buttoning and thought I’d get one. If they work out I’ll take it to Stephan Haroutunian and have a few made up in different colours and patterns. I am hopeful it might make the perfect summer shirt.

So, whether you are looking for inspiration for the perfect summer shirt, a top hat, you’re a frustrated diner or a lawyer, you may find the Vintage Shirt Company of use.

The Chairman’s Winter Ball:

Dinner Jacket: Peak Lapel single button Single Breated Dinner Jacket at Roderick Charles (on Sale)

Collar: 2 and aquarter inch collar at The Vintage Shirt Company

Shirt: Marcella Semi-Stiff Front Dress Shirt at Ede & Ravenscroft (Also avialbale at The Vintage Shirt Company)

Dress Studs: Sterling Silver Dress Studs, Onyx and Mother of Pearl at Woods of Shropshire

Bow Tie: Silk self tie Bow at Moss Bros (on Sale)

Braces: White Barathea Dress Braces at Bromleys

Waistcoat: White Marcella Cotton Waistcoat at Ede & Ravenscroft (Also available at The Vintage Shirt Company)

Pocket Handkerchief: Green and White Dot Silk Pocket Square at Roderick Charles (on Sale)

Dress Shoes: Patent Pumps at Shipton & Heneage

Cufflinks: Chess Board Cufflinks, Stirling Silver, Mother of Pearl and Onyx at Aspinal of London

Watch: Nautica men's stainless steel chronograph strap watch at Ernest Jones

Online Sources: On the Fly

2009-07-24T15:52:00.013Z

Nubuck Sports Oxford, from On the Fly

It seems On the Fly now do international deliveries and I am very tempted by these white bucks. While you will have to add on some import tax and postage they are still very well prices. I haven’t used this store but it does come highly recommended, by none other than Will at A Suitable Wardrobe –the Daddy of all us clothing bloggers. But I e-mailed them and within the hour they got back to me. International clients can pay by Paypal and they charge only what they're charged for postage. As an Aladdin's Cave of Americana they're a source worth keeping in your back pocket.

With the rediscovery of Ivy League style and America’s reintegration into polite society –which coincided with the election of Obama- they are right on trend, but where as most designers, from Paul Smith to specialists like Lodger, have picked up and run with saddle shoes, these Sport Oxford’s (which is a crap name) are something a little more individual. While grounded in Ivy history and tradition, I’m pleased to say they have been ignored by the UK and European footwear makers. Of course, their lack of presence does have a disadvantage –namely getting hold of a pair outside of the US.

I’ve been looking for these ever since I saw this picture on Ivy-Style. And now I have a source. I give you the Sport Oxford Bucks from On the Fly.

Lazy Sundays:

Sunglasses: Porshe Carrera Vinatge at Emporium

Shirt: Old School Cricket Shirt at The Vintage Shirt Company

Cricket Jumper: Cornell University Cricket Jumper at Smart Turnout

Jeans: Easy Fit Stonewash Jeans at Gap

Shoes: Oxford Sport Bucks at On The Fly

How to: Make An Old Fashioned

2009-07-21T23:22:00.004Z

This week saw the release of Mad Men Season Two on DVD and Blueray. To celebrate this event here is a tutorial on how to make an Old Fashioned. For those that don’t know, this is anti-hero Donald Draper’s drink of choice.

Whiskey: How To Make An Old Fashioned Cocktail

I’m of the opinion that everyman should know how to make the odd cocktail, and it seems I’m not alone. So if you you’re inspired enough to learn a trick or two, here is your starter for ten courtesy of The Art of Manliness.

I would also recommend the bar of the OXO Tower (the location for the tutorial), if for no other reason than the view. However, squeezed behind the brassiere it’s not a big bar area and can get very crowded, and quite uncomfortable. If you and your date aren’t eating, my advice is use the place for an early evening rendezvous, enjoy some of the live jazz, take in the wonderful view and adjourn as diners begin to fill the bar.

The T. Burrows Breton

2009-07-20T20:45:00.006Z

The Breton, £35 from T Burrows

The Breton is something of a classic, if not perhaps a common sight. There are plenty of retailers sticking the label ‘Breton’ onto any blue and white stripe jumper in their collection. The real deal stems from a traditional Fisherman’s jersey, and should be made of 100% unbleached, knitted cotton. Very simple and utilitarian in nature, traditional designs are either cream with blue horizontal stripes or a navy with white horizontal stripes. They shouldn’t have any logos or stylistic markings.

Ideal for late summer and late spring, I think that continental feel is an option well worth having in the wardrobe. Being so simple they go with just about anything you like; put it under a blazer (no shirt) with jeans or chinos; alternatively, pair it with shorts and Italian Driving mocs. One of the great attractions of classic simple pieces like this is their versatility.

The one carried by T Burrows sells for £35 and Michael and Allan told me, during a recent interview, that they had some trouble sourcing a proper one –they even covered the labels for my photos. I’m off to New Zealand at Christmas, which is the height of the antipodean summer, and thought it might be just the thing for lazy afternoons on the sun deck.

Great Kit, Lousy Staff: Hilditch & Key

2009-07-18T15:09:00.007Z

Are you being served? (Photo: BBC)

After yesterday’s post this may seem a little odd. But a shop that sells great kit, but tops it off with lousy staff is one of life’s petty little torments –like having a cigarette without a match.

Whatever distinction Hilditch & Key hold with regard their shirt making, one area where they unquestionably excel is employing the rudest, most disinterested, unhelpful and generally unpleasant staff on Jermyn Street.

I’ve worked in retail and know how hard it can be, but that is never an excuse for poor service. What I never understood, and I saw it in my own retailing days, is why people who earn substantially less than those they serve are so willing to look down their noses at people who aren’t spending much money. The staff of Hilditch & Key are a prime example of this trait.

I have no doubt that if you wish to spend £400 on a set of made to measure shirts then they will fawn all over you. This may indeed explain how they have gotten away with it for so long. Of course what they forget, as did my retail co-worker back in the day, is that a man may only come in for a couple of Handkerchiefs one day, but if treated well, tomorrow he may return for that £400 worth of shirts.

When I went into Hilditch & Key on Saturday not one member of staff said hello, good afternoon or goodbye when I left. They certainly didn’t offer any help. And this isn’t the only time this has happened. Normally there is a dumpy woman in there with a face like a bull dog chewing a wasp –and a not dissimilar disposition. She wasn’t there Saturday, but the sullen blond and a ‘fancy myself’ young man at the counter were not an improvement. A word of advice: hand someone a chip and pin machine don’t sling it. But to be fair she wasn’t interested in me. I was only a customer buying a couple of handkerchiefs, she and her mate had to denigrate the gentleman who proceeded me.

So, while I may return for the odd small item, if I really cannot get it anywhere else, any real money to spend and I’ll leave Hilditch & Key behind me, cross the road and head to Turnbull & Asser.

I have often thought about setting up a consultancy to show retailers what real customer care is about. But, for those who couldn’t afford me, I offer some tips.

1. Snobbery, rudeness or sulleness are not features of exclusivity.

2. Money is a matter of timing. Today’s student is tomorrow’s billionaire, so mind your manners.

3. People talk. Don’t think one bad incident will be confined to just your staff and the shopper –they will tell everybody they know.

4. Shop assistants:

a. You may hate the company you work for, but that isn’t the fault of the shopper.

b. You may hate your job, then get your act together and get another one. Don’t take it out on customers.

c. Have pride in doing a job well. I guarantee if you can’t do that you’ll suck at any job you hold, however cool.

d. You don’t have to fawn over every customer, nor do you need to make a nuisance of yourself. However, a simply hello and goodbye is the minimum required of you.

e. If you’re serving a customer then serve them. Do not continue your conversation with your mate standing next to you. Oh, and it’s probably not a good idea to denigrate the previous customer while serving another. We can hear you, even if they have left.

6. Retailers, Managers and Business Owners:

a. A rude old man is a rude old man, whether he is a revered craftsman or not.

b. A rude old man is a rude old man, whether or not he’s worked for you man and boy.

c. 16 year olds and students may be cheap, but if they turn customers away then they’re costing you money.

d. No one lives for ever, not even rich people. Look after everybody who shops with you no matter their age or current spending power –you will need them one day.

e. Shit only happens to shitty businesses.

Congratulations Hilditch & Key –Nil points.

Handkerchief, Neckerchief & Pocket Square

2009-07-16T21:12:00.008Z

Pure cotton large handkerchief from Hilditch & Key, £3 (sale)

If you’ve ever read ‘Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy’ you’ll know the single most important item of apparel to take on your travels is a towel.

For less adventurous travels I would say these large cotton handkerchiefs from Hilditch & Key were the second most useful. They come in a variety of colours and patterns, all are pure cotton and if –as is the case now- you get them while on sale they cost just £3 a piece. Indeed, they go on sale every year, and I’ve been waiting for the last few weeks.

Why should I wax lyrical about these? Three reasons really.

Firstly, a coloured or patterned cotton handkerchief adds a textural alternative to silk when stuffed in the top pocket of a jacket. This works particularly well in summer or with more casual looks, silk can look too dressy.

Secondly, these particular handkerchiefs are larger than standard types and so can double up as makeshift neckerchiefs in hot whether. Tie as you would a bandana, but being slightly smaller in size the ends aren’t as long; it looks less contrived, and slightly less conspicuous. I don one whenever I wear a crew neck T-shirt (exhibit (a) and exhibit (b) Sam Neill) as I have a long slender neck and the neckerchief evens up my proportions. I also wear it with open neck shirts and shorts for a dash of individualism.

And finally, the third reason, you can always blow your nose on it....

Notice Board: Glorious Goodwood

2009-07-15T21:02:00.004Z

28th July to 1st August is Glorious Goodwood. Having enjoyed Royal Ascot, High Roller, myself and former House of Commons buddy Ant-knee “Aces” McDonald have booked ourselves tickets.

Spread over the week and set high on the beautiful South Downs, Glorious Goodwood is another of the great social and horseracing events on the sporting calendar (and yes it’s actually know as Glorious Goodwood, I wasn't being pretentious). Whereas Ascot is all pomp and ceremony, Goodwood has been described as one long summer garden party –with horse racing tacked on. While a certain amount of formality is required, thanks to King Edward VII the morning suit is discarded in favour of linen suits and Panama hats -and the Champaign is replaced by Pimm's.

High Roller rates this as perhaps the most beautiful of racecourses, as this footage testifies. Provided the weather holds out, I’m looking forward to another great day of adrenalin and sartorialism. The races themselves date back almost 200 years, to when the Third Duke of Richmond gave over his estate so that officers of the Sussex Militia might race their horses. The meeting proved so popular that it continued, expanded and even attracted Royal Attention. Its popularity increased decade after decade, to become a highlight of the flat racing season, and has even spawned websites dedicated to nothing else. If you’re interested in knowing more, including tips and guides on how to bet, I recommend sites 1 and 2 (unhelpfully they are both called Glorious Goodwood).

Tickets are still available and prices range from £30 to £13 depending on the enclosure (we've opted for the Gordon Enclosure) and how far in advance you book. Tickets must be pre-bought and you can do that here. As the intention is to indulge in a few snifters we’ve opted to catch the train. Leaving Victoria Station it takes you to Chichester in a little over an hour and a half. From there you simply hail a cab and hightail it to the racecourse. Between a few of you it shouldn’t be too expensive.

Running Tuesday to Saturday we’ve opted for a Friday, as High Roller assures us it’s a little less crowded. If, as I am, you’re a racing novice but fancy knowing more, or simply want to know what you’re missing out on, then I heartily recommend trying one of the big social events. Westie and I were not disappointed by Ascot, and I expect no less from Goodwood.

The wonders, magic, customs and traditions of this small Island never cease to amazing me. You still have time to book your tickets.

Old School: Lloyd Miller, Bespoke Tailor and Alterations

2009-07-13T23:23:00.009Z

This gentleman is Mr Lloyd Miller and he’s my new alterations tailor. He’s also a little more than that, being a full bespoke tailor –not to mention a proper gentleman.

You know, I lived in Clapham for years, and everyday I passed Lloyd Miller on my way to Clapham Junction train station, and never gave it a second thought, until recently. But I suppose that is relatively easy to do. From the outside Lloyd Millers may not look much, particularly to callow youth, so easily impressed by shinny surfaces and bright lights. However, all this time I’ve been missing out on a good thing.

In terms of Mr Miller’s back story, you have a tailor of very considerable experience –the best part of 40 years in all. He was born in Jamaica and at the age of seventeen came to England, whereupon, for his troubles, he was conscripted (welcome to England). On leaving the army in 1961 he first went to Borough Street Technical College and from there on to the London College of Fashion, where he remained for five years. From there he established himself as a bespoke tailor.

While the Clapham location is where he does the cutting for his bespoke garments and some fittings, he also has unrestricted access to the Holland and Sherry fitting rooms on Savile Row. If this is a more convenient location, you simply need to make an appointment with him and arrange your time and date.

What I liked about Mr Miller, other than a genuine desire to help you get what you want, is his attention to detail. I took a linen jacket in to have the side seams taken in. When I returned to pick the jacket up Mr Miller informed that it wasn’t ready and asked would I mind holding on for another week. The reason was that he couldn’t get hold of the exact blue cotton to match the other external seams. Of course he could of used a close match but didn’t because, whether I spotted it or not, he’d have know it wasn’t perfect. That sort of care is extremely reassuring. Indeed, a lack of that sort of attention is why I’m trading in my old tailor, James’ of London; they’d make sloppy mistakes and my patience has just about run out. That said, it’s a big step moving from something you know, even if it is unsatisfactory, to the unknown. But I couldn't have picked a better replacement.

As an experience it's perfectly untaxing, he tells you exactly what is possible and what isn't, and explains why. I felt completely confident leaving my garments in his care. Part of the comfort may well be the shop itself. Low key and unglamorous you couldn't possibly feel intimidated, even if you're a bespoke novice. Of course, if you want the Savile Row experince without the Savile Row prices, then make that appointment and see him in the Holland & Sherry fitting rooms.

My first experience was so positive that I’ve decided to use his bespoke services and have a pair of grey flannel trousers made up for the autumn. This conveniently brings me to the matter of price, which for both alteration and bespoke services are very competitive.

Alteration charges:

Shorten length of trouser £15; shorten sleeve £25; waist £15-£18 depending on how the trousers are made; side seams of a jacket £45.

Bespoke Charges:

Trousers £150-£165 depending on cloth;

2 Piece Suit £550 depending on cloth, make time can be as little 3 weeks and Mr Miller works to three fittings. One third payment as a deposit and the rest payable on completion.

His opening times are Monday to Saturday from 9:30am -6:30pm.

If you’re looking for a new tailor, or your sale time bargains need some tweaks I would strongly recommend an easy train ride to Clapham Junction.

Location:

Lloyd Miller Bespoke Tailor

Unit 1, 7/11 St Johns Hill,

Clapham Junction

London

SW11 1TR

Tel: 020 7228 1243

Nino’s Shirts: How to Dress Outside Your Comfort Zone

2009-07-12T19:53:00.029Z

My Nino's shirt. A well chosen gift from Westie

On Saturday I popped into one of my favourite shirt makers Nino’s. Sadly he was rather tied up so I wasn’t able to chew the cud as normal. I love these shirts, not only for their build quality but also their originality.

Of course, being so bold in their colouring and design you might be a little put off, feeling they constitute something outside of your comfort Zone. But I have theory that overcomes this, which allows me to indulge my more expressive and individualistic side without dressing inappropriately for my age, body shape and, most importantly, character. It works with almost any garment. You simply need to dress it down by pairing it with duller, simpler clothes that restrain the garment in question. Conversely, conservative clothes are lifted by the addition of something unashamedly individual, hence the notion of dressing up by dressing down.

It is difficult to explain why it works. It’s just one of those imperceptible balancing tricks, which I suspect many stylish dressers do subconsciously. It’s the same aesthetic that makes tartan trousers work with a dinner jacket; brightly coloured waistcoats with morning suits; flashy tweed jackets with blue denim jeans or bold Italian shirts in beautiful fabrics with single jackets.

Take the vibrant, the unusual and the daring and combine it with the ultra conformist. Here are a few of Nino’s shirts that caught my eye, each paired with a either a black velvet jacket or blue blazer.

Source:

Nino's
Unit 5-7 Quadrant Arcade
80-82 Regent St.
London
W1B 5HB

http://www.ninos.co.uk/

The Ashes: The 12th Man

2009-07-07T22:42:00.005Z

With the Ashes beginning tomorrow –weather permitting- there is plenty of punditry around. Most of it is wrong and merely covers up the fact that this is a difficult Ashes to call.

So as an alternative, or antidote depending on your view, we thought it an ideal moment to introduce you to Aussie import the 12th Man. Previously not easy to come by, being mainly available on import, it’s now available from ITunes and Amazon. A mix of satire and schoolboy humour, it’s all set around Ritchie Benaud and his commentary team on Channel 9’s Weird World of Sports. You don’t need to be an Aussie to appreciate the humour.

Alas not Ashes commentary with this one, but nonetheless it gives you a flavour of what to expect.

The Ultimate Football Shirts: TOFFS

2009-07-06T06:30:00.005Z

1966 England World Cup Winners Shirt

The name TOFFS actually stands for: The Old Fashioned Football Shirt Company. And that sums them up perfectly.

They sell high quality reproductions of famous players and team shirts. So whether you wish to wear Bobby Moore’s 1966 Word Cup winning shirt or that of a 1970’s Brazilian World Cup Winner, now you can; they have a vast array on offer including more obscure teams. I’m no expert but I don’t think there is a team or country they don’t do.

The recommendation, like the one on Rapha, came from Monkey who raves about them. Having bought a few he says they’re better made than new or original club shirts, many of which will cost you a lot more. The shirts themselves are solidly constructed and the badges are all individually embroidered then sown onto the shirt. A nice little touch is that you can have either your own name or that of a famous player added to the back of the shirt for a fixed fee (regardless of length of name) of just £5.00.

The range of products on offer has been expanded beyond just shirts, giving you the option to buy old school leather footballs, track tops and bottoms and a nice range of cashmere scarves.

I have to say that I’m more of a Cricket and Rugby fan and even then don’t tend to wear the fan clobber. However, plenty of people do, and there’s nothing wrong with that. If you’re going to wear these things, why not make it matter and make it the best. That said, I was rather taken by the limited edition 1966 England Jacket, as worn by Sir Alf Ramsey.

The company delivers all over the World and postage starts from £2.95 for First Class Royal Mail for delivery within the UK, and £8.00 for the rest of the World. It’s a little cheaper if you live in Europe. If you want it sent by UPS they can do it but the cost rises depending on location.

If you’re a foota fan they strike me as a cut above, and get the era right, not a bad gift idea for your father, older sibling or ardent fan in your clan.

And in case anybody was wondering, I do keep an eye on my home town team of Norwich City. Less said the better.

The Ultimate Cycling Kit: Rapha Performance Roadwear

2009-07-04T09:44:00.004Z

Rapha, Stowaway Jacket, £175

The Tour de France starts today, and with that in mind it seems an ideal time to mention British company Rapha. They probably make the best cycling clothing and apparel in the world.

Designed with performance in mind, their roadwear is the perfect balance of form and function. Quality is second to none, which makes the kit expensive, but you’re paying for something perfectly engineered from people that perfectly understand the physical and mental demands of road racing. Many items are based around classic cycling clothing from various eras, which makes them nicely grounded and provides for that element of style.

Our man Monkey, aside from an interest in photography and websites, is a keen cyclist and raves about this stuff.

Whether you’re a cyclist or not it’s worth a look. I’ll raid any type of utilitarian clothing to achieve my own look. I’ve spotted a few bits I wouldn’t mind adding to my wardrobe. And while there is an element of all the gear no idea, most people wouldn’t know what they were looking at, even if they new what its true purpose was. Of course if you are a keen cyclist you’ll love what you see –particularly the prints and publications section. It is the pinnacle of cycling clothing and apparel.

If you want to follow this extraordinary endurance race here is the official website.

Online Only: Oi Polloi

2009-07-01T21:04:00.009Z

An appropriate company logo, the Magpie...

Technically this isn’t an online only retailer, they have a bricks and mortar shop in Manchester. But I don’t live in Manchester, so it’s as good as.

However, I am sorely tempted to make the trip up there, as I would rather like to meet the lads behind it. Whoever they are, they have a keen eye, great taste and clearly put the work into finding distinctive and original clothing and accessories.

There are 3 types of independent retailer; those who make their products (bespoke and made to measure), those who design under their own name or label and then source manufacturers and, lastly, those who look to build a collection and a look from a variety of other labels. Oi Polloi comes under this last category; and in my experience it’s always useful to have a few retailers of this sort in your back pocket. If you like the look, or are have trouble putting clothes together, retailers like this can save you time and help you avoid costly mistakes.

Many of Oi Polloi’s offerings lean towards the contemporary urban and new ivy trends, such as A.P.C and Engineered Garments. Nevertheless, from what I’ve seen the items are carefully chosen and many have a solid classic quality. They have the best of the new labels and of the classics, with plenty of sound investment pieces which defy age groups or immediate fashions. If you have a mind to create your own style, as I do, you’ll find plenty of needful items. There is also a clear care to build quality; prime examples being Redwing boots, Barbour jackets, Sperry Topsiders and British new comers Albam and Folk. Any unfamiliarity you may have with any brand –and there are too many to list – is helpfully removed with little explanatory opeds on the brand and its history.

On the downside I should say that their contemporary leanings mean they endorse the skinny and slim fit culture so prevalent. Jeans, chinos and trousers only go up to waist 36, and do bare this aspect in mind when looking at shirts and knits. If, like me, you weigh a bit more than £1.50 in loose change you’ll still find much to recommend this website.

Started in 2002, the mission statement was to create something which would stand “as a reaction to the mass of bland, uninspiring men's fashion stores lining the UK's high streets. With sports shops becoming lowest common denominator fashion shops and shoe shops becoming trainer shops, Oi Polloi decided that it was time for a change”. If you know anything about me and BespokeMe, you’ll know that such sentiments are beyond to grab my interest. This is one I intend to add to the Directory.

Oi Polloi is in many ways a template of the new (often younger) bread of independent retailer for which the internet has been a catalyst. The store, the people behind it, combined with enthusiasm form a sort of ‘personality brand’. All of it is very human and designed to make you feel apart of something, which in previous generations was probably only the case for select clients at very select retailers. In the case of this retailer you can sign up to the news letter and follow tweets from the owners as they visit manufacturers and trade shows.

Prices are competitive and there is a flat rate postal charge for the UK of just £3.95. They also deliver worldwide with postage being dependent on weight.

Picture courtesy of Rubber Sole

I was tempted by much but decided the gap that needed filling was for a white trainer boot. My choice is the Superga Hi Cotu (pictured above) at £45. An Italian brand with a sound heritage and a low key but cult following, they’re a sound European alternative to the ever present Converse boot.

Normally I would give the shop a call and do a telephone interview, but as my sis lives up in Manchester I might just do a field assignment. Saying that, last time I met up with my sister and her girlfriend they loaded my drinks, and under the influence tried to coax me into a “really nasty strip club”. The things I’m prepared to do for you!...

Bars & Dining: Roast, Borough Market

2009-06-30T00:49:00.007Z

The picture above is the Earl Grey Martini, and aside from being the Delilah to my Samson for the better part of Saturday afternoon, it’s also a work genius and about the most refreshing summer cocktail going –particularly if you’re not a fan of fruit based cocktails, or the Mint Julep.

Entirely the work of a former Roast barman, a friendly barmaid, of what is now my favourite little cocktail haunt, kindly shared the recipe. And now I share it with you. There is a little pre-planning required but nothing taxing.

The basic ingredient:

50ml of Earl Grey infused Tanquiry Gin
25ml of fresh Lemon juice
25ml of gomme (boil sugar and water to make a sweet watery syrup)

Add ice and shake. Coats the rim of your Martini glass in sugar (as you would do salt for a Margarita). Then strain your mixture into the glass. You should also chill your glass prior to use.

Pre-planning: To infuse your gin with Earl Grey Tea, simply mix your gin with loose leaf Earl Grey Tea, poor through a tea strainer and funned back into the bottle.

The tea provides a fragrant freshness to the drink, the gin the body and the lemon the kick. The sugar just removes the sharpness slightly. I intend to serve them as a pre-BBQ livener.

Of course even better than making them yourself, is to go to Roast and have someone make one for you. Situated in the roof of Borough Market the bar at Roast is small, but it has a wonderful view. It’s light and comfortable, and the staff are all warm and genuinely friendly, and actually look pleased to be working there. You can sit and chat or simply gaze out over the street scene below, and read a complimentary paper. On average the cocktails cost £9.00 and a bar menu is available. Alternatively treat yourself and dine behind the bar in the main restaurant. The food is exceptional being sourced from Borough Markets finest merchants; the views are even nicer in the restaurant.

Three courses and drinks will set you back roughly £100 between the two of you. A slightly cheaper, simpler menu is available at lunch time, comprising some solid favourites like fish and chip and a burger. On the whole the menu is meat based and its dishes are distinctly masculine, which is logical given its location. Indeed, I think of Roast as very much a natural man’s restaurant.

As for the atmosphere, it has a young, fresh, relaxed feel, a relaxed dress code certainly helps this. Nevertheless, everything is done to properly and to perfection, and yet you shouldn’t feel uncomfortable or out of place, even if you don’t know your salad fork from your fish knife. Its become one of my favourite restaurants, and is an ideal place for a special date, dining clients (they do breakfast) or a quick cocktail on the way home.

I should apologise for my recent absence, I should think you heartily sick of Royal Ascot...

I have endured a solid weeks heavy socialising, and I’m afraid it took its toll. But, half a stone heavier, a few brain cells lighter, and some unexplained bruises later, I’m back in the land of the living and ready to get back to work.

Royal Ascot 2009: Tips and Top Hats

2009-06-23T21:55:00.026Z

Until Saturday I was a turf virgin, and my knowledge of Royal Ascot was hitherto influenced by media coverage. That coverage focuses heavily on the ‘Royal’ aspect of this great event. And while that provides the social context, and some nice photos of well dressed people, it fails to provide any real insight into what really goes on and what you might expect.

If you understand little or nothing about the English then remember this; the English are never so happy as when they are dressed up getting pissed up. Westie and I were fortunate enough to have regular Ascot goer High Roller as our guide, but I thought it might be helpful to you to provide some pictorial highlights and a few insights.

I hope they will encourage you to try your hand at this most famous of race meetings. I commend it to anybody, it’s a far more enjoyable, and less daunting an experience, than you might think.

The place to be:

The first thing to know is that The Royal Enclosure, while attracting all the media interest, and social cache, is actually a very small part of the racecourse. It consists of one small part of the track side viewing area near the finishing post, some lower ground floor space in the grandstand and of course access to the private boxes high up in the grandstand. The majority of the facilities, from loos to bars, are shared regardless of ticket type.

Racing is first and foremost a professional industry, with high overheads, played for even higher stakes. As High Roller keeps reminding me, it’s a near perfect example of the free market in operation. Petty snobbery interferes with business. Accordingly, many (not all) of the bars, restaurants and refreshment marquees are available to race goers regardless of ticket type –the same is true of outside the grandstand seating areas. The Winners Enclosure and Parade Circle are everybody’s domain.

Everyday the Queen processes down from Windsor Castle along the racecourse. Most people gather in the grandstand and along the racecourse to see her. However, in order to enter the Royal Box via its private entrance the carriage turns into the grandstand and loops the outer path of the Parade Ring. Stay here while the others race off trackside and you’ll get by far the choicest encounter with HM. Indeed, to get any closer you’d need to be receiving an OBE.

So, unless you earnestly desire an afternoon in the company of Tarquin’s, Tamara’s, Tamarins’ and the collective detritus of the Merchant Banking classes, you really don’t need a Royal Enclosure ticket.

Ticket types:
There are four classes of ticket; Royal Enclosure, Grandstand Admission, Silver Circle and Heath. For those who don’t know, to be admitted to The Royal Enclosure you must be a guest of a member or sponsored by someone who has attended the Royal Enclosure for four successive years (unless you’re American it seems). However, I would spend the extra and get a Grandstand Ticket. Essentially you will be able to go everywhere you need to go and nearly all the places you want to go. With regards trackside, you’ll be right in the middle of the action. Furthermore, I wouldn’t worry about going mid-week, go for the Saturday instead. There were far fewer Royal Enclosure guests and a lot of hired morning suits. Everybody mingled together and it didn’t really matter which ticket type you had. Of course you will always encounter some arseholes who think themselves a cut above by virtue of their Royal Enclosure badge -the worst offenders are actually the women. But its stands to reason that just because you put a monkey in a morning suit it doesn’t make him a gentleman.

Dress Code:

Entry to the Royal Enclosure requires morning suit and top hat, which seems simple enough to get right, but there are mistakes to be made. And plenty of people made them. I took my camera with the hope of getting some great shots, but found little worth capturing.

So, a few tips for Royal Enclosure guests:

1- Avoid the ultra conservative and traditional single breasted grey waistcoat. It makes it look like you hired your suit.

2- Go for a double breasted waistcoat if you can, and preferably one made of Linen. While bright colours and patterns work well, try to avoid shiny materials like silk, they’re better suited to evening wear, and can also make you look as though you’ve hired your kit.

3- Go for the black top hat. Traditionally grey is for weddings while black is for Court functions (Investiture, Garden Party etc). Those who really know what they’re doing go black.

4- Whatever the 16 year old serving you in Moss Bros advises; ditch the white shirt. If you want to show yourself truly at ease in morning dress, go for colours, stripes or white collar and cuff with an appropriate tie.

For the rest of us a suit and tie is the order of the day. And that being the case I suggest being bold. I wore my Prince of Wales check, but on all accounts avoid tweeds and country checks. It’s the wrong reason.

All together:

One final thing that no one ever tells you about, and which you don’t want to miss, is the patriotic sing along at the end day.

This is a wonderful treat where winners and losers, top hats and lounge suit, builder and banker meet as one at the bandstand before departing. Here you will belt out show tunes, Beatles classics, and patriot numbers. Whether fortune smiled on you or not you’ll leave smiling.

The after show party:

If you catch the train to Ascot, which seemed by far the most popular means or reaching the track, this will be an easy place to find, being next to the station. Indeed I recommend this as your means of transport, not only do you avoid the traffic jams, but you can also soak up the atmosphere of the collective slope down Station Hill as revellers make their way back to the train station (trains leave Waterloo and stop via Clapham Junction) and the pub.

Jagz Bar is where the women kick off their heels and one and all kick back to tell tails of trackside glory.

And for the players amongst you, should your interests tend more towards two legged fillies, you’ll find this a worthwhile arena.

Tickets go on sale just after New Year and I would strongly recommend going, it's a fabulous day out, a great British spectacal and a superb adrenalin rush. We will return.

Capital Catwalk: Keep It Simple

2009-06-17T08:21:00.008Z

Often being well dressed is a matter of doing the really simple things well.

Simple doesn't have to mean boring. This chap has merely combined three primary colours -well.

Catwalk Capital: Life Imitating Art

2009-06-15T20:22:00.007Z

This gentleman is Hiroshi Watatani and it turns out that he is a famous and very accomplished Japanese fashion illustrator. Sadly not much of his work is available to view online. But here are a few links that show off his unique style.

It is unsurprising that with such a studied artistic style this should follow on into his wardrobe.

Sources:

Collar Pins: Broderick.com. This is the only reasonably priced supplier I've found. A small family owned business based in Dallas Texas, they ship all over the world and you can pay with Paypal. I haven't ordered my pin yet, but will be.

Collar Bars: Ebay is the most prolific source. The bars differ from pins in that, as their name suggests, they don't pierce the fabric.

Catwalk Capital: How To Wear A Morning Suit...

2009-06-14T14:02:00.004Z

...as though it were any ordinary item of clothing.

Catwalk Capital: New Tricks from Old Dogs Continued...

2009-06-12T00:20:00.004Z

I realise the title to this post may sound quite offensive –particularly if you’re the gentleman pictured. Well, it’s not supposed to be. If you remember my past post on the subject you’ll understand what I’m talking about.

A picture of perfection: the bespoke suit shows how to ignore the accepted wisdom regarding double breasted; the rakish fastening of the inside button only; the perfectly knotted tie; and a summer panama.

While this gentleman kindly submitted to my request, I’m not sure he understood why I wanted his picture. Possibly regarding it all as a rather impertinent intrusion upon a gentleman’s morning. Quite right too.

Admirable T-shirts: WeAdmire.net

2009-06-10T10:33:00.017Z

WeAdmire.net design studio, Great Eastern Street, London

There are some things I just don’t get; T-shirts is one of those things (and you could add, Obama-rama, Kebabs, mobile phones and American women) No, the admiration and obsession that many men have for T-shirts is something that has to date passed me buy.

Indeed, some men seem content never to know the joy of a crisp collar, and come summer or winter, rain or shine can be found in nothing but T-shirts. However, in light of a recent discovery I could become a late convert.

Any fan of Ronnie Barker will know the significance of the name Gerald Wiley

I found WeAdmire.net on a recent recky around Islington. It’s the brainchild of Theo Stegers. Originally running his own recruitment company, when the market collapsed he spotted a gaping whole in the T-shirt market and decided to do something about it –and it’s rather a nifty idea.

Essentially, most people wear T-shirts which are either loaded up with the retailer’s logos or bear upon them some strange and/or ultimately facile design. What they wear says nothing about the person that's wearing it.

Theo decided to change that by creating T-shirts that actually mean something to the people that wear them, and so WeAdmire.net was born. Working in a studio on Great Eastern Street, Theo and his team of designers create T—shirts which feature people or items to be admired, and what you choose says a lot about you.

Each T-shirt is limited edition and Theo certainly has a talented team behind him. The designs are vibrant, in some cases intricate but all are original, and this is what makes them a cut above the average. For example, you won’t find many T-shirts with Margaret Thatcher on them, but as Theo said to me; “love her or loath her, you’ve got to admire her”. I think many are beautiful pieces of art in their own right.

The T-shirts are sold online (£12.95 plus £2 P&P) and as a result the array of ideas is vast, from famous cultural and scientific figures to theories that changed human understanding. The back story to each T-shirt design is explained on the website. You could spend hours looking through them.

Fred Astaire: Sartorialist, Athlete and old school Hollywood

My particular favourite is nothing quite so lofty, but it is cleverly done, and probably won’t surprise you.

So here’s to a bit of meaning in the wardrobe.

I’m not a full convert yet, so will be layering my T-shirt...

Sources:

Emporium: Calzone vintage sunglasses

Orvis: Blue Denim Shirt

WeAdmire.net: Fred Astaire T-shirt

Cordings: Stone Cotton Twill Jeans

Folk: Peacock Nash Belt

Sniff: Superga Classic Canvass Trainer

A Few of My Favourite Things: Hilditch & Key at Sale Time

2009-06-08T21:10:00.009Z

This may seem an unusual one, but come sales time, if you have a spare £250, you would do well to invest it with Hilditch & Key. Being a bastion of proper English dress, with a thorough understanding of the rules, they’re better placed than most to bend those rules responsibly. And occasionally they do just that.

At both summer and winter sale time I’ve popped in and found some wonderfully understated but original jackets and items of outerwear at very reasonable prices (the same is true of the classics). You can be assured of the quality, and because of their heritage none of these items will date, despite them being left field of the norm.

Previous finds included a single breasted fly front (concealed buttons) cotton blazer with side adjusters (like those on the jacket above) for £125. The same season there was a rather flash red cotton safari jacket, with free standing collar, adjustable waist ties and natty French Blue, Butcher’s Stripe lining. A garment best suited to those of slight build, in my view.

A final example is the short coat pictured above, which I found in January. It was a quilted needle point corduroy material, with zip and poppers front fastening and a concealed hood in the collar. Details of note were the side adjusters and pleats in the shoulders. The coat was £275 down from £395.

We are just about to enter the sale season and forewarned is forearmed; £250 will pretty much cover the cost of any of the items listed –some slightly more, others less. So, keep some cash spare and get some well made, original jacketing and outwear.

I’m actually pretty well stocked for jackets and outerwear this time around, but I will be buying a couple of their linen shirts, they have proper collars, and seem to offer the perfect balance of comfort and elegance.

Catwalk Capital: Go Green

2009-06-06T16:11:00.017Z

I don’t think this photo is particularly good –I’m still getting used to the camera. The picture’s only virtue is to show off this wonderful green jacket. A much neglected and otherwise overlooked colour, but perfect for this time of year. It’s about time green had its day.

A few green suggestions...

Boden: Summer Utility Trousers
Vintage Chino
Smart Turnout: Lime Green Watch Strap £14.94, Watch with Strap £97

Roderick Charles: Green Fox 7 Fold Tie £29.50

Folk and Shofolk: Butcher Jacket Technically called Peacock Blue –but we’re men damn it! It’s Green.

Hackett: Surf Short, Hibiscus leafs

Orvis: Twill Check shirt

Peckham Rye: Scarf, full size

The Natural Shoe Store: Nature Sko,

Catwalk Capital: Find Your Personal Style

2009-06-04T20:55:00.008Z

I should really have named this post 'Tweeds & Tatts'. This gentleman's name is Svenn, and I spotted him on Jermyn Street. It was the combination of tweed and multiple earrings that first caught my attention -that and some nifty footwear. When I asked him whether I could take his picture he calmly lit a cigarette, took his jacket off, and revealed the inks.

I asked Svenn how he would describe his personal style; "A cross between a country squire and 1940's tattooist".

From Norway, Svenn had come to London to shop. He was an extremely nice man and even e-mailed me the stockist for his shoes -which originally caught my eye.

Oh, and the shoes come from an E-bay retailer called Elite Forum, Svenn rated them as do their other clients it seems. They deliver all over the world, and seem to specialise in Northampton shoe makers. It might be a useful source for any of you in American.

Catwalk Capital: How To Dress A Small Frame

2009-06-03T22:42:00.012Z

I spotted this well dressed gentleman from the bottom of the street. It was his extremely well tailored waistcoat that caught my eye, followed by his shoes. Slight men often make the mistake of wearing looser fitting clothes, presumably in a bid to appear bulkier. Enjoy your slightness. I assure you, those of us who can extract the calories from a duvet while sleeping are deeply envious.

But, if you want to add some weight to your look, do as this chap did and keep the clothes tailored, layered and wear a heavier shoe in a tone lighter than your trousers. The rest of us should simply enjoy playing with the concepts of tone, weight and proportion.

Some heavier footwear suggestions:

Pediwear: Tricker’s Keswick £255

Shipton & Heneage: Oakley £229 and Cambridge Tan Derby £139

Tres Bien Shop: Grenson Archie Brogue £201. You might find these cheaper with UK stockists. But worth checking out this online retailer anyways.

Bodiley: Crocket and Jones Shell Cordovan Onslow £420

Pediwear: Crocket & Jones Tan Clifford £385

Bodiley: Alfred Sargent Stratford Ambra Burnished Calf £220

Bexley: Paddington €129. A French company which according to the Forum chat is reliable. Their shoes are often made by Baker and Cheany of England.

Herring Shoes: Loake 641 £119

Alden: Shell Cordovan Blucher Oxford $615. For our American friends who can afford to splash the cash.

Catwalk Capital: Modern Mods and Scooters

2009-06-01T20:21:00.008Z

I took these whilst out on a day’s street photography with Monkey –who aside from being one of the guys designing my new blog is also a keen, and very good, amateur photographer. You can read more about why we were doing this at the bottom of the post. But on our first outing we saw this wonderful Mods scooter convoy making its way along Piccadilly. A blaze of colour and signature clothing.

The gentleman in the cornflower blue jacket and white jeans is striking more of an Italian note to my mind.

It's the contrast of the purple jacket with the cream driving gloves that makes this particularly striking. It's the smallest details that can make a look.

Again a strong base colour mixed with a cream driving glove.

Next to a Harrington jacket nothing speaks of 60's modishness like the dessert boot.

One should always try new things. These photos are part of a new feature I’ve been thinking about trying for some time. Inspiration can come in many forms, and other people are as good a form as any magazine pictorial or newspaper column. And it happens all too often; you see someone on the train, tube or street looking jack the biscuit with some item you’d dearly like to add to your wardrobe –if only you had the courage to ask (we are men after all). As well as finding inspiration I’m hoping that the people we meet will help me track down new sources of kit.

I’m also a big fan of the street style websites like The Sartorialist, whose photos I’ve used here on a number of occasions. Sadly Scott rarely comes to London, mostly confining his activities to New York and Paris and even then he features more women than men. London has a character all of its own, as do the men who dress well in it, so I figured it was time to redress the balance. After all, where would the worlds of men’s style and fashion be without London?

And if I were honest there is one last reason behind my trying this out. I wanted to see whether I really have an eye for these things, or am I just some talentless reverberating chancer. Ought to be interesting finding out.

Should you see this gentleman camera in hand stalking a street near you, by all means come and say hello.

What the Papers Say: Beer Train, Stuntmen, Best Dressed and Worst Mannered

2009-05-31T14:05:00.009Z

A weekly roundup of articles from the mainstream media, press and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.

Child of The Jago, Joseph Corre's menswear concept store

The Independent: I discovered Joseph Corre's menswear store on Saturday's recky. It was an extraordinary place. But then as the child of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, and co-founder of Agent Provocateur, Joseph Corre is an extraordinary man. The shop takes as its influence the Edwardian, Victorian and earlier Regency periods, as well as the culture of the Native Americans. It then takes these stylistic, political and cultural influences and blends them into a range of clothes which are suitable for the street. The clothes have an element of self congratulatory irony (and just a hint of Hoxton Twat) about them, but on balance I liked them. And I could certainly see myself wearing the beautiful Club Collar shirts, not so sure about the jersey made to look like a Napoleonic infantryman’s tunic. Anyways, I wanted to know more about the man behind it all. The Independent interviews him –no easy task.

The Guardian: The Beer Train. Genius, it’s why Stephenson invented the Rocket.

Esquire: Some nice pics on the art of combining casual and formal clothes to create an individual look. Mind you, typical Esquire, they attribute this stylishness to the subject of the photos, actor Joseph Gordon-Levitt. We all know that’s bollocks, all stars have stylists who pick their clothes. Cary Grant used to buy all his own clothes for a film role. A shop manikin can look stylish –all depends who picks the clothes.

The Sunday Times: An interesting interview with the men behind the James Bond Stunts. And apparently many of the stunts have been done by successive generations of stuntman from the same family. Not surprisingly all the women of the clan have white hair.

Esquire: Continuing their best dressed regular man competition. Not hugely impressed. Still, worth a look if you wish to feel smug and superior...and who doesn't from time to time.

GQ: It would be a dire Sunday without something from Nick Foulkes. Here he discusses the merits of the Cohiba cigars.

Summer Titfer

2009-05-29T13:43:00.017Z

While at Emporium scoping out the sunglasses, I noticed Jonathan had just taken a delivery of straw hats. I am considering a summer hat, for much the same reason as I bought a winter hat in January. As well as his vintage stock Jonathan often has new stock manufactured to compliment what’s already in the shop. These hats are just such and example.

The hat has enjoying something of a renaissance over the last few seasons. One could feel spoilt for choice as most retailer attempt to cash in.

These ones from Emporium had a Mad Men/Frank Sinatra feel that really appealed. The distinguished colouring certainly makes them an alternative choice. My particular favourite was the dark green Pork Pie or Sinatra Panama hat.

Green Pork Pie hat £35 and Blueberry Panama £48
Brown and Black Straw Trilby £35

A little too much perhaps?.....

Sources:

Straw Hats: Emporium, 330-332 Greek Street, Greenwich

Dunhill Sunglasses: Emporium

Suits: Hackett

Belt: Andersons, from ASOS £47

Shoes: Harry's of London tradmark loafer, £295

Vintage Sunglasses Part II: Emporium, Greenwich

2009-05-26T23:24:00.008Z

Following on from yesterday’s post here are some more ideas for alternative and affordable designer bins, courtesy of Jonathan Hale at Emporium. We feature beautiful Cazal, Dunhill and John Lennon sunglasses.

Cazal are a West German company they renowned for their quality and unusual designs, which have come to epitomise European design chic. Indeed, they have enjoyed something of a revival, being adopted by the Rap and R&B community –if there is such a homogenised thing (I’ve overreached). Emporium’s Cazal Sunglasses are going for a reasonable £65.

These are from the John Lennon Collection (above), which is a series of glasses and frames which were cast from the originals worn by John Lennon, and made with the approval of the family. So as Jonathan put it to me; “you know you’re getting the real thing. You’re not getting any knock-offs”. Money from sales also goes to the estate. If you think this might be more your taste they’re going for £45-£50. I should also add, they’re designed so you can you can also replace the lenses for prescription.

Jonathan described these Dunhill's as “superb” in terms of the construction of the frames and their lightness. And I have to confess these were my favourites, but then sunglasses are a personal thing and must be chosen with some care.

All the sunglasses featured are vintage old stock, so have never been worn and many haven’t been out of their original boxes in over 25 years.

Vintage Sunglasses Part 1: Emporium, Greenwich

2009-05-25T22:45:00.010Z

Men and Womens glasses, Emporium

On Friday I nipped down to Greenwich and while there visited Jonathan Hale, the owner of vintage store, and one of my favourites shops, Emporium.

I always enjoy visiting Emporium. Jonathan is a real enthusiast on the subject of men’s apparel, with an encyclopaedic knowledge, which he is only too willing to impart. Add to that his excellent taste in music and you can while away a few very informative and pleasant hours. And that’s exactly what I did.

The other reason for visiting Emporium is that there are always some rare, individual and needful things. And this visit was no different. At the moment he has a wonderful array of immaculate vintage sunglasses. All are exceptional pieces from high quality manufacturers such as Carrera, Cazal, and Dunhill. All are unused and in the original boxes with original cases.

If you’re looking for something distinctive, individual and of the highest quality, at a good price, here are a few ideas for low cost stylish designer bins.

There is plenty to highlight, and I have some wonderful pictures. It seems a shame to waist them so I shall post them over two days. Here are the Carrera and Porsche Carrera sunglasses, with a little background detail courtesy of Jonathan.

Carrera was an Austrian factory, renown for the quality of their glasses.

They were commissioned to do a range of glasses for car company Porsche, with interchangeable lenses and to a high quality –which is guaranteed by the fact the company put their name to them.

These folding Porsche Carrera sunglasses (above) were reputedly a design collaboration between Carrera and the car company’s designers. The ones Emporium has are from 1983, boxed, in mint condition and are a design classic. The year before last Jonathan supplied these folding Carrera sunglasses to luxury New York department store Bergdorf Goodman. He was reluctant to disclose what they charged, by it was substantially more than he asks.

These are the Carrera version of the Clubmaster, which in Jonathan’s view are better quality then the Ray Ban.

The Carreras are £65, the Porsche Carreras are £100 for the fixed frame and up to £150 for the folding frames. I don’t think you’ll find any of these brands at a better price. If you don’t believe me, just check out this website.

Source: Emporium, 330-332 Greek Road. Greenwich, London SE10

What The Papers Say: Our Weekly Roundup

2009-05-24T16:21:00.004Z

A weekly roundup of articles from the mainstream press and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.

My choice as an influential movie for English men

Esquire: Celebrating their film week Esquire pick the 75 films which most influenced American men. A fairly standard idea, but there are some unusual choices, and a few I’d never heard of. A little bit ‘too cool for school’, nonetheless it is worth a look.

New York Times: An interesting little article that wonders whether Vodka has had its day in the sun. For me Vodka is to the drinks cabinet what skinny jeans are to the wardrobe -a silly bit of faddishness suitable only for teenagers and those who know no better. As a drinker of whisky and the odd gin martini, one can only hope their prophecy comes true.

An Affordable Wardrobe: I love this blog. It has become one of my daily clicks. To call it a preppy guide to thrift would be to undersell it. Written by an out of work architect in Boston, it’s one mans journey through the thrift stores of the region as he seeks to amass the perfect preppy wardrobe. The guy has a great eye and personable writing style. The effect is to produce a less than conventional style blog, which proves a useful source of inspiration. I heartily recommend it.

Men’s Flair: Simon Crompton, who is also responsible for blog Permanent Style, discovers a new bespoke and alteration tailor in Bow Lane called Graham Browne. Looks like one I’ll have to check out.

New York Times: An interesting exposé of a website designed for those fellows about to walk down the isle. Personally, I think everyman should read Herald Froy’s ‘How to Avoid Matrimony’. Had you done so, you wouldn’t be panicking now....

The Times: Why it’s worth getting your hair cut at a barbers. Insightful; for those of you not folically challenged.....

Forbes: This is the most expensive suit in the world at £100,000. Intended to launch a new exclusive –meaning expensive- range of clothing. Just what the world needs, another arsehole selling manufactured crap for the price of a small car. Please God we do not need another Tom Ford.

Washington Post, Demon Denim: I found this on Dandyism.net . A favourite read of mine, and where I also found this enjoyable piece on the Art of Wearing Clothes.

Finche’s Quarterly Review: Following on from the article above, Tom Stubbs vents a little spleen on the pitfalls of denim –which most men all too willingly blunder into. He also provides a few recommendations with regards to brands worth trying.

Men.Style.com, 10 Essentials: A simple idea; ask well known men with a certain reputation for style what 10 things they can’t live without. Not normally my kind of thing –given that my heroes are all dead- but as an avid people watcher I found it, and some of the choices, interesting. I lost half an hour of my life in the process. What would your ten be?

A Suitable Wardrobe: I’m always keen to learn new things and expand my sartorial knowledge. Will Boehlke waxes lyrical on the merits of Voile as a shirting material. Not something I’m conversant in, so a useful titbit to take in and store for a later date.

Something for the weekend: Grey Tweed, Patch Pocket, buggy lined jacket.

2009-05-22T11:28:00.020Z

T.Burrows, £230

Last Friday I did an interview with Allan and Michael of outfitters T.Burrows. I spent a very pleasant few hours in their company and now I’m busy transcribing the tape –which takes me forever.

Buggy Line is the how you describe the loose lining that comes just below the shoulder blades

However, since that interview I am conscious of an ever growing obsession, namely, the patch pocket, buggy lined, grey tweed jacket pictured above. A beautiful rich pure wool cloth it’s 3 quarter lining and no canvass makes it suitable for spring and autumn or layering in winter. Nicely cut, with the trade mark T. Burrows soft shoulder, it appealed to me straight away.

I‘m certainly becoming a convert, albeit late one, to the virtue of the patch pocket. It provides far more flexibility for dressing the jacket up and down –especially down, as this style of pocket is by tradition a more casual option.

To my mind this is the perfect weekend away jacket. And there is an art to packing. Cary Grant was notorious for packing light. For example, he used to wear women’s nylon panties which were easy to wash in the sink at night and dried quickly, ready to go next day.

There is certainly something inelegant about dragging multiple suit cases and rucksacks about the place. Key is packing clothes that serve multiple functions, in the right combinations. This will ensure you always look presentable, but which are suitably practical for whatever you may be up to.

This jacket is robust, but suitable for all but the hottest climates, easily smartened up by combining it with wool trousers (or a change of footwear) for an impromptu formal occasion or dinner; likewise, thrown it over a polo and chinos for some city exploring, with enough pockets to put your wallet, map and other exploratory kit.

No man should leave home without one.

For a day's exploring...

By night.....

simply change your footwear and polo to something more suitable.

Day Time Kit:

Clubmaster Sunglasses: Online from Sunglasses Shop, £79.95

John Lewis Polo Shirts: White and Black polo, pack of two (white and black) £15

Bills Khakis: The ultimate chino and sadly not available direct. They are stocked by J.Simons in Covent Garden.

Velo-re belt: Prices vary, £39 upwards. Read our review.

Ede & Ravenscroft Pocket Square: Available online or in store £39.50 (Also Try Nino’s for something more affordable)

Red Wing Beckman Boots: Available from American Classics, £160

Night Time Kit:

Shipton & Heneage shoes: Tan Calf Double monks, on sale £149

Better Late Than Never: New Ede & Ravenscroft Website

2009-05-19T21:35:00.007Z

I spotted this bit of news tucked away in The Londonpaper while on the train journey home. It seems traditional English bespoke tailor and outfitter Ede & Ravenscroft have entered the 21st Century and launched a fully commercial website.

One of the most traditional and oldest of England’s tailors, they are probably even better known for their expertise in ceremonial attire. Indeed, you may even have used them without noticing. If you graduated University the chances are your gown and mortar board were supplied by Ede & Ravenscroft’s hire service. And on a topical note, they also provide the garments for the Speaker of the House of Commons –whoever that may be. I hope the new guy will once again adopt the wig.

In all, Ede and Ravenscroft can boast nearly 250 years of robe making experience in the service of Monarchs and Peers of the realm.

For us mere subjects, the website is full of useful information on the ready to wear and bespoke clothes, as opposed to just a parade of what’s available –although it kind of puts me out of a job. But to give you an example, all off the peg suits come with a second pair of trousers, which is quite a rare feature.

While the range of available items to buy online is not exhaustive, it does include the basics and gives you a rough idea of what things cost, before that first nervous step over the threshold.

What the Papers Say: BespokeMe’s Alternative Sunday’s

2009-05-17T16:40:00.010Z

Photo: Niven Estate

A weekly roundup of articles from the mainstream press and the blogosphere. For an alternative Sunday read.

The Sunday Times: A preview of a forthcoming book; David Niven: The Man Behind the Balloon, by Michael Munn. There are some men you wish you could be. For me David Niven is just such a man. Charming, witty and a complete scoundrel, I strongly recommend his autobiographies; The Moon's a Balloon and Bring on the Empty Horses. This new book adds an interesting and thought provoking chapter to the story of this great English raconteur and old Hollywood icon. I’ll be buying the book when released in June.

Permanent Style: Simon Crompton muses on the Butchers stripe shirt. It’s certainly a much neglected classic. If you’re tempted by Simon’s treatise, then Harvey & Hudson on Jermyn Street would be the ideal place to pick yourself up some fine shirting. The bold stripe is almost a trade mark of theirs, as is the white collar and cuff shirt –which is my preference for something classic and bold.

New York Observer: A while back I expounded the theory that Wayfarers were the only sunglasses a man ever needed. This interesting article from the New York Times would seem to concur, and explain better than I why that is. And don’t worry about seeing them everywhere, the fashion conscious with their goldfish like attention spans will soon lose interest. Persevere.

The Independent: I’d read Nick Foulkes’ shopping list. His literary elegance and wit is only matched by his real life sartorial grace. Some men have all the luck. This little article on ‘Boden Man’ is a little harsh, but wonderfully amusing.

GQ Online: I don’t know what this viral video says about Sir Tom Bakers’ suits, but then having watched it, I’m not sure I give a damn.

The Sunday Telegraph: Apparently pastel shirts are the way forward for summer. No comment.

GQ Online: Also from GQ, an interview with Peter Capaldi, aka Malcolm Tucker, from In the Loop. If you’re a fan of In the Thick of It and were worried that it might not transfer to the big screen (think On the Buses and other disastrous TV to film capers) don’t be. I saw the film last week, and both Westie and I laughed ourselves silly. It contains some of the most original basic Anglo-Saxon ever to come to the silver screen.

The Sunday Times: Tired of advice on the virtues of thrift and practice of parsimony, The Mutton decides to splurge on a pair of £770 Berluti Shoes. The accompanying back story about Andy Warhol and the Berluti brand is interesting. If you’re a notorious snapper up of unconsidered trifles you’ll appreciate it.

The Sunday Telegraph: Nick McCormack tells us why we should look forward to the reissuing of 70s Rolling Stones albums, and why they ruled the decade. I'm sold.

A Night In: Wall Street

2009-05-15T12:11:00.008Z

Coming back from my interview with Allan and Michael at T.Burrows yesterday I popped into HMV.

Maybe it’s the style, maybe the relevance to the current financial debacle the financial boys have got us into, but I've had a hankering to see Wall Street again, and low and behold there it was for a crisp fiver.

The must see film of the 80s, on both sartorial and cultural grounds it still seems strangely current.

Westies out for the night with the girls, so I shall hit the sofa, reacquaint myself with the collective works of Mr Johnnie Walker and enjoy a little power dressing and financial skulduggery –shoulder pads will be optional.

My Own Money: Unstructured, Patch Pocket Jacket

2009-05-14T00:37:00.011Z

Jacket from T.Burrows, £149

Having had the best part of a week off, owing to a dose of the flue, it’s back to it with gusto.

I have a list as long as my arm of independent retailers to investigate. Most are geared towards urban and casual clothing, as opposed to the more formal tailoring and vintage stores which have been our standard fair to date. Friday will be my recky day, and I’m rather hopeful of turning up a gem or two. I’m particularly interested to see what Mudford & Scruff turns out to be. And Saturday I shall be chasing up bespoke tailors in the Clapham area.

And Today I’m going back to interview Allan and Michael, the owners of T.Burrows; the little shop I discovered a few weeks ago in Marylebone. I have to say this is the part of doing BespokeMe which I enjoy the most; finding out about the people that own and run these little shops; their vision, their motivation and, above all, the infinite details behind the garments. And therein lay one of the important differences between the high-street and the independent.

And that brings me to the cotton Linen mix, patch pocket, unstructured jacket above. This is a throw on, anytime, any occasion jacket that every man ought to have in his wardrobe. It sits as well with T-shirts and jeans as it does with collars, tie and woollen trousers. In fact there really isn’t much you can’t put with it. It’s a classic bit of kit and a core item for summer. It also happens to be a speciality of Allan and Michael’s at T. Burrows, which was where I bought this one from.

An unstructured jacket has essentially two parts to it, the internal and the external. Internally, it will have little or no padding/wadding in the shoulders, no canvass and may well be unlined, or more likely quarter to three quarter lined. Externally it should have patch pockets, no button wholes on the cuff and usually a seam of stitching in it place. Designs do vary, so you may find a mix of these elements. The main thing is that the cut is loose, exhibiting almost no tailoring.
Within those elements lay all manner of pitfalls. The main problem is that if little care is taken in the construction, instead of hanging from you the jacket merely collapses upon you. Poor examples will leave you with excess cloth under the arms, across the chest and around the shoulder blades. Relaxed jacketing merely becomes scruffy, cheap looking jacketing.

Allan and Michael have perfect their design of jackets over many years and as such have turned it into a bit of a specialism. As a result, after several years of searching I finally acquired one, and it’s rarely been off my back since.

The Healing Powers of Laughter

2009-05-11T22:51:00.004Z

My apologies for the absence, but a dose of the flue knocked me out for the week.

However, thanks to the healing effects of laughter, courtesy of a weekend excursion to the 02 Arena, I am fighting fit once more.

Al Murray’s creation of the Pub Landlord is to my mind one of the great comic personas of all time. Deeply ironic and responding to all our basest conceits, it’s far cleverer an act than you might initially conclude, particularly in an era of political correctness. And on Saturday Westie and I popped down to the O2 Arena in Greenwich to see his live show.

It seems that BespokeMe has picked up a bit of a following abroad and almost half our readers come from outside the UK. So, for their benefit and you’re good health, please raise your glasses for Mr Al Murray, the Pub Landlord.

1st Test: England v West Indies

2009-05-05T19:19:00.003Z

Photo: Times Online

Tomorrow marks the first of the summer cricket tests with the opening day of the two match series against the Windies. After England’s dismal winter abroad, and the Ashes later in the summer, supporters will be looking to see some real improvements.

I had been due to go to Lord’s tomorrow and as well as enjoying a day’s cricket I had hoped to take some pictures of the redoubtable members of the Marylebone Cricket Club under full sail –no finer sight. Sadly, I seem to have copped a dose of the flue (not swine flue one hopes, although I am sweating like a pig) and so a day in bed is all I can look forward to.

To mark the opening of the first test here is a round up of punditry.

Daily Telegraph: Graham Gooch with an interesting article on new No.3 Ravi Bopara. All the best, it’s time to shine. Another article worth reading is Simon Briggs’ on Selector Andy Flowers and his team choices. Some brave moves that deserve to pay off. Fortune favours the brave.

The Guardian: A thoughtful analysis from The Spin.

The Times: Test your cricketing knowledge by taking the Line and Length quiz on the Wisden trophy. Also some thoughts from Simon Wilde on why England might be better off without Freddie Flintoff.

Cricket Buzz: Lists the 50 top cricketing blogs as well as the top 10 international sledges.

Retro to Go: 60s Suede Loafers, from Ebay

2009-05-03T13:39:00.011Z

I wasn't going to use this picture, but I liked the way the light fell

These wonderful shoes arrived on Saturday. They’re a pair of 1960s suede loafers with leather sole and elasticated sides. I actually picked them up on Ebay for £22.

Their first, and only other, owner bought them in sometime in the early 1960s, he wore them once and found them a bit too small. From that moment onwards they have been sat in the bottom of his wardrobe. To look at the soles you won’t know they’d been worn even the once.

Proving the point that everything comes back in if you wait long enough, the subtle narrowing to a near point of the toe puts them right on trend; although without going to the ludicrous extremes that most modern footwear seems to have. They’re rather well constructed including a reinforced cap in the toe, which should help them keep their shape.
Ideal with jeans and odd jackets, as well as chinos and cardigans and needless to say they’d be a perfect accompaniment to one of Adam of London’s suits. Indeed, I’m so pleased and impressed with both the look and design, I’m contemplating seeing if I can get identical pairs made up.

I wouldn’t normally advocate Ebay as a source for kit; but for all its faults, just occasionally you can turn up a gem. Fortune does favour the brave I suppose.

The One and Only: Wayfarer Sunglasses, £10 at John Lewis

2009-04-30T11:27:00.005Z

Photo: John Lewis

As far as I’m concerned there is only one style of bins, and that’s the classic Wayfarer.

Whatever the merits of all other styles, only this 50’s classic has the perfect blend of form and function to sit as well with a suit as they do with T-shirt and shorts, and be as suitable for Royal Ascot as they are for a day at the beach.

I picked these up on Saturday for £10 from that bastion of dependability and value John Lewis. They have the classic Wayfarer shape; the tortoise shell patterning; they’re heavily tinted and they offer Category 3 protection (which means high sunglare reduction good UV protection). The bowl of the lenses is less tinted, making it easier to read print while lounging in the sun.

I can see the allure of owing a pair of designer sunglasses, but given the unlimited possibilities for mishap and misfortune, and a very good alternative, I could never justify the cost.

A Day of Discovery, Part II: T.Burrows, Marylebone

2009-04-27T23:44:00.012Z

I doubt I have the capacity to truly describe the feeling I get when ever I discover a great little independent retailer for the first time. This joy is multiplied if I happened across it as a result of a random exploration.

Now, if you add to that the sounds of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr greeting me as I crossed the threshold of T. Burrows for the first time, well I was in heaven.

I’ve thought long and hard about how to describe this shop and what it does. I still can’t quite crack it. The shop has an interesting range of clothes that I can only describe as transatlantic. They’re not quite traditional British tailoring, neither is it pure Ivy League. Although I am convinced that, like me, anybody with a love of either would instantly see the value of this shop.

Colour, colour and more colour

There are a host of interesting, well conceived and beautifully executed garments; from soft shoulder, lightly structured suits, to linen shirts in a range of beautiful colours. To everything there is a carefully thought out simplicity and attention to construction.

Knitted cotton ties, inspired by David Hockney and made in Italy £29

Run by two friendly but softly spoken chaps by the name of Michael and Allan, they design all their stock, from the socks and ties to the chinos and suits. They then go out and source it from quality manufacturers here in the UK and abroad.

Belts made in England from proper quality leather £39

I spent a very comfortable hour at the shop and was so taken by the place that I left with a cotton linen mix, patch pocket unstructured jacket. It will form the core of my summer wardrobe. It fit me straight off the hanger, and it only cost £149. Now, for me to buy anything on a first visit is a rarity. I also picked up a pair of socks.

I’ll be going back to do a full interview with Michael and Allan, I only hope by then I’ll have recovered my composure...

A Day of Discovery: Brunch at Providores, Marylebone High Street

2009-04-26T19:09:00.006Z

Ever had one of those days where the tide seemed to be with you? Well, that was yesterday for me.

There were three things on the agenda; firstly, meet a friend for brunch; and second, find a blue cotton, patch pocket, unconstructed jacket for the summer; and finally, find a pair of wayfarers that suited my face. I managed all three, and in the process made some very useful discoveries.

The first of these was a little place on Marylebone High Street called The Providores. Established by two Kiwis called Peter Gordon and Michael McGrath (who moved to New Zealand as a boy), it represents all that a typical Kiwi dining experience should be; great food and service, and all for a fair price.

While Providores do lunches, dinner and Sunday evening roasts, in the main restaurant upstairs, they’re most famous for Saturday and Sunday Brunch in the ground floor Tapa Room. A cross between a bar, coffee shop and cafe it’s a popular meeting place. Indeed, get there too late and you’ll be joining a queue that stretches along the pavement.

Speaking for myself, I always preferred brunch to dinner, as an option for wining and dining a date. Firstly, if the brunch went well the chances are you’d spend the rest of the day in each others company, and after that night time jollies were a dead certainty. Conversely, if your date was a dud, you could say goodbye early afternoon and you hadn’t ruined your evening. I wasn’t on a date this time, merely meeting my friend Noreen for a long overdue catch-up. But I would strongly recommend Providores Tapa Room for any kind of get together.

For Kiwis brunch is almost a national pastime, and Westie and her friends frequently bemoan the difficulty of finding something similar to the offerings of home. Done right it’s a sort of informal formal dining, and there is no more pleasurable way to while away a few hours. Providores does it right, offering exceptional food coupled to a light, buzzing atmosphere –this is helped by the youngish crowd frequenting it. It’s small, and a long, raised central table can makes it fell cramped. That said it didn’t feel claustrophobic, and if you can get either one of the window seats or side tables along the walls. The atmosphere is helped by the waiting staff, who were full of smiles. All except the French waiter that is. But then you don’t get to call yourself a waiter in France unless you have the charm of a cold sore and social skills of a hermit. So that’s expected.

You can see the diverse menu on the website, but my guest and I had the French toast stuffed with Bananas and Pecans, topped with streaky bacon and vanilla syrup. It was sweet without being sickly, the bacon was flavoursome and the French toast light and moist. There was also a fine selection of coffees, of which we both had multiple cups. And don’t be put off by more conventional options like the granola and porridge. They won’t be like anything you’ve had before.

Our bill came to £35 for the two of us, including service charges. Both my friend and I left with the firm intention of returning. This is a golden find and one that everyman would do well to keep in his back pocket.

Tomorrow I’ll post on a great little independent menswear shop I found while making my way to Jermyn Street. Called T. Burrows, the website provides a teaser.

Midriff Subversive, Part II: Velo-re Belts

2009-04-21T20:44:00.020Z

Velo-re Belts

There’s no such thing as an original idea. For every rule there is an exception.

I hate to start with clichés, but it seems only appropriate. You know, there are thousands of belts out there; there are leather ones, coloured leather ones, grosgrain and ribbon, elasticated, woven and even suede. Every brand has them in their range, and all are trying to reinvigorate the same ideas. And then there is a Swiss woman called Betty, living in South London, quietly working away with her friends Javier and Agata.

These wonderful belts are actually made of bicycle tires, believe it or not. It seems an utterly bizarre idea, but sometimes that’s exactly what originality requires. They certainly provide something different to the ribbon and grosgrain belts that are the uniform this summer. The back story and detail behind them is just as interesting as the belts themselves.

I found them whilst on a forage to Portobello market, which is a wonderful source for inspiration, second hand clothing, cheap accessories and antiques, and, as in this case, the odd original independent designer. They were being sold by a very pleasant chap named Mal, who was selling them along with his own brand of T-shirts (which you can view on his website). It was he who put me in contact with the maker Betty (short for Betina); and one Friday evening she and I had a very enjoyable chat over the phone about what she does.
There are things in life I expect not to know anything about, and bicycle tires are just such a thing. But the more you know the more you understand what makes each one unique and the concept so original. Betty explained that there was a wide variety of bicycle tires, each made with different rubber compounds. Some are very valuable and highly prized. For example, there are special edition tires as well as bespoke limited edition race and country tires for noted professionals in the cycling world. Eventually they all find their way to Betty and provide the distinctive colours and patterns you see. In addition, the way the tire is used, weight of the rider and surface upon which it has travelled affect the eventual condition of the tire and become part of the design. What you see are the tires as delivered to Betty, no later addition or tweaks to the design, she then makes them into the belt.

I asked Betty who buys her belts; as you might expect she and her belts have quite a following amongst the mountain bike and racing fraternities. Indeed, her latest devotee is gold medallist Nicola Cook, who uses, so Betty told me, very rare tires which are to be made into belts. Therein lies part of the reason behind the following, Betty also does a bespoke service. For example, if you want a memento of a race you’ve won or biking trek across Africa, why not have the tire made into a belt. Betty told me that she gets quite a bit of work this way, particularly in light of the popularity, and relative accessibility, of biking tours across the far flung corners of the globe. It’s rather a neat idea –the belt not the trek. Many professional racers like to give the belts as gifts to friends and sponsors, using tires they’ve raced on.

I was curious as to how the idea came to her, and just how she makes them. Betty (full name Betina Galaizzi) is, it may not surprise you to learn, a cycling proficiency instructor. The belts she makes in her spare time and she described it to me as “a labour of love”. Indeed, a big sponsor came across her belts and offered to work with her, but she turned them down: “Its’ just not my thing”, she told me. As the following for the belts grew two friends came on board to help fulfil the demand.

And there is quite a bit of labour involved to make one belt. To begin with the tires have to be thoroughly washed to remove grease, dirt and stones. Having been washed, each belt is then cut and sewn together by hand. They ‘re pre-punched with eight wholes and come in two sizes, SM 30-34inches and ML 36-38 inches, but you can have any size you like, simply get in touch with Betina.

The idea actually came from a friend of hers back in Switzerland, and when Betty came to England she brought over a few of his belts. Her friend then suggested she try making them, so she did. Adding what she described to me as “a woman’s touch” these belts sold even better than her friends. Betty so enjoys what she does she continued.

In fact it has turned into a way of life for Betty. Part of the reason for making them in the first place was an enthusiasm for recycling. According to Betty, bike shops have piles of old tires because recycling rubber is too expensive in this country. So they’re only too happy to give them to Betty. She tells me she’s “as much a collector as anything; I can’t leave anything alone”. Everything in her Herne Hill workshop is stored in old banana crates, and even the packaging for the belts is made of old potato sacks re-sewn and printed upon. So, as well as original and distinctive belts, there’s a pretty sound philosophy behind it all.

My particular favourites are the multicoloured ones, which would sit as well with jeans and chinos as they would shorts. If you fancy one there are a few ways to get one, and prices vary but are all reasonable for a hand made original. They’re available on Betty’s own website at http://www.velo-re.com/ . You can also find them on Mal’s website (along with his t-shirts) and the Natural Shoe Store –a useful place for distinctive garments in its own right.

So there you have it. I bet you never thought there was so much to be said on the humble bicycle tire.

Sources:

Velo-re Belts: www.velo-re.com

The Natural Shoe Store: www.thenaturalshoestore.com/

Connection Clothing (Mal’s website, love the song with this video): www.connectionclothing.com/

A Call to Arms: Threatened Closure of Bates Hatters

2009-04-20T21:30:00.004Z

Bates Hatters, 21a Jermyn Street

Some depressing news came my way over the weekend, courtesy of Facebook Group member Julian. It seems that the Landlord of distinguished men’s hatter Bates want to redevelop their building and thus force the closure of the business.

Bates have put out a plea to their customers (and those that care) for help. They simply ask that you write to Westminster Planning Department to object to the proposed redevelopment. The details are here on Bates' website. They provide the relevant contact at Westminster Council, reference number as well as the postal or e-mail address, which ever you find easiest. Please show your support. This wonderful, independent business has been offering men’s hats and a friendly personal service since the turn of the century.

Of course we are talking about more than just one business alone. Bates hat shop –and the dwindling number of quality independent retailers like it- are a quintessential part of the character of Jermyn Street, and London. What would this city be without its Jermyn Street, Savile Row, Brick Lane and Hatton Garden. The answer is the same as every other city in modern Britain -an endless parade of the same high street brands, chain pubs, coffee shops and office blocks.

The life story of London is of a city of streets and quarters specialising in trades. Ignoring this not only obliterates that history but also London's magical character. Bates, and the specialist, independent businesses like it, help form that character. Jermyn Street cannot be allowed to become just another Bond Street or Oxford Street, simply for the benefit of property developers.

Shops like Bates are something to be protected and cherished, as is the character of the streets upon which they sit. Show your support, it’s time to make a stand.

I posted my letter this morning.

A few of my favourite things: Redwing Boots

2009-04-16T23:10:00.007Z

Photos courtesy of American Classics' and Redwing

I’ve been lusting after a pair of these boots for over a year now. At £160 there’re not cheap, but there’re not expensive either, certainly not when you consider the build quality. And yet every month they get pushed to the bottom of the list of priorities.

I’m going to stick my neck on the line and say that these are going to be the must have piece of footwear for the autumn and winter 2009. Two reasons for believing this; firstly, I’ve seen several people wear them both here in London and on The Sartorialist (a useful predictor of future trends); and secondly, they’re more commonly available. Previously only stocked by specialist stores such as American Classics and J. Simons, both located in Covent Garden, I noticed recently that they were being stocked by John Lewis’ Oxford Street store.

A recognised name in the US, they’re not that well known here –except amongst Americana aficionados. You might, therefore, find it useful to get the full story from the company’s website. You can also peruse the Redwing range via the American Classics’ commercial, and rather good, website. The boots themselves are made to last and are a real piece of work/utility clothing that has crossed the boundary into fashion. As an aside, the Redwing boot was Steven Spielberg’s original costume choice for India Jones. However, Harrison Ford, whose first career was as a plumber, used Alden boots in his work and convinced Spielberg to go with those instead. That boot is now known today as the Indy.

The Heritage Work boot (top) is the classic Redwing, but my preference is for the Classic Dress Beckman collection (pictured below).

In every way they look the way a boot ought to look.

A few of my favourite things: Blue Shirt, Orange Tie

2009-04-15T12:08:00.006Z

Nino’s blue textured shirt and orange paisley tie. Shirt £89 Tie £49

I have a huge archive of photos, retailers and products that I have come across. I had every intention of introducing them to you in full posts, with all the BM attention to background detail. The problem is, being a workforce of one; I never seem to have enough time. As a result, things that might enlighten, help or inspire never get seen. Well, as my Canadian cocktail partner says, “Time to piss or get off the pot” –she has a wonderful way with words don’t you think?

So, I’m going to try my hand at short posts where I can highlight things that spark my interest, and in so doing may provide you with a few ideas.

A blue shirt worn with an orange tie is one of my favourite colour combinations, and if putting colours and patters together isn’t your forte, it’s pretty much fool proof. It lends itself to either blue or grey suits and it doesn’t matter whether you go for a vivid orange tie, darker rustier hues or which shade of blue shirts you pick. Likewise, provided the shirt is blue, it even works with patterned shirting fabrics –Prince of Wales, stripe, check or gingham. Some combinations of shades work better than others. I find the darker the orange of the tie the more sombre the look, which is my preference. It’s formal without being dull, and sets up a contrast that is pleasant to the eye.

This particular combo comes courtesy of Nino’s. The shirt is a 2 fold, Italian cotton, a Marcella (golf ball) weave and the tie is a bold orange paisley, costing £89 and £49 respectively.

A New Beginning

2009-04-06T21:46:00.002Z

I’m pleased to report that the new look BespokeMe blog is available to preview in our Facebook group.

A bespoke blog if you will, the end product will comprise an enviable range of functions and gadgets, from a more integrated and navigable directory, postcode locator and maps to video streaming. All things I have wanted to add to this site, but couldn't. For now though, the vastly improved text layout, clearer, larger and expandable pictures is something to be grateful for.

And there is a part for you to play as well my friend. I'm determined to provide a site that’s suits the real needs of its readers, so don’t be shy and tell us what you think,what you need, what you want and what you like. Indeed, even what you don’t like. It all helps.

As for the builders of the new blog, Mr Grease and Mr Monkey will be returned to their families once their job is done.

The change over will happen soon, but in the meantime why not grab a sneak preview.

Craftiness: An Alternative Tie Pin

2009-04-01T23:14:00.011Z

On Saturday I found myself in the company of some rather crafty women.

I was on the hunt for an elusive tie pin/clip, which I made mention of in my post on ‘The Art of the Old Rogue’. The tie pin in question looked much like a cross between a safety pin and kilt pin. Having given the matter far more thought than was sensible and healthy, I reasoned it probably was a kilt pin.

Having, by an agonising process of elimination and exploration, settled on the obvious, I set out to get myself a kilt pin. From here I found myself in the company of those crafty women at the Sewing & Craft Superstore, Tooting.

Now, I don’t want you to think that I spend my evenings sat in front of fire undertaking needlepoint. But changing buttons, zips and clasps, or dying the odd item of clothing is not beyond me -or rather my tailor. For those, like me, whose vanity is sufficient to overcome their lethargy and frequently retrofit their clothing to get the desired effect, this place is a real find. Particularly useful items were dyes for suede and leather shoes, something to keep in mind when the loafers begin to look a little tatty.

A pack of two kilt pins, measuring no more than 3 inches in length, was a mere £1.50. If you’re tempted to emulate the look, any good haberdasher will carry such items. One thing to be aware of is that kilt pins are made of sturdy metal, and are substantially thicker than a safety pin. If you don’t want the pin to pierce the tie with all the neatness of freight train passing through a high school, I advise you pay careful attention to the sharpness of the point. You may find your local key cutter has the necessary equipment to rectify this problem. Alternatively, have a word with your local garage mechanic, who will also likely have the equipment necessary to sharpen the point.I intend to try it out on older ties first, and in preparation have been buying cheap, wide vintage ties. Essentially nothing I mind putting a hole in, and wide enough to support the proportions of the pin.

Who would have thought you could buy so much peace of mind for a mere £1.50.

Source:

Sewing & Craft Superstore
300 Balham High Road
Tooting
London
SW17 7AA
Website: http://www.sewantique.com/

Giving in to Temptation: Paul Magen, Bespoke Cufflinks

2009-03-24T22:05:00.015Z

Cufflinks are addictive things. From the moment you acquire your first pair, the chances are you will begin a lifetime’s quest to find that perfect pair; distinctive, individual and timeless.

So what do you do if you think you’ve exhausted all the possibilities, or have something in mind that doesn’t exist? Well, that’s where someone like Paul Magen comes in handy.

Just the Facts

Name: Paul Magen

A range of high quality hand crafted jewellery for men and women, off the shelf or commissioned, made and designed in house by the owner. The distinctive textural working of the metal (gold silver or platinum) creates genuinely original pieces. Competitively priced hand made off the shelf pieces and bespoke commissions.

Service: Off the shelf, bespoke commissions and restorations

Prices: Hand crafted off the shelf silver cufflinks £55 upwards. Bespoke items dependent on requirements.

Who You’ll Meet: Paul Magen (Designer and Maker)

Location: 37 Catherine Street, St Albans, Hertfordshire AL3 5BJ(A limited selection sold through: 3 Portobello Green, 281 Portobello Road London W10 5TY)

Contact: Tel 01727 860 440 or 07956 822 223; e-mail

paul@paulmagen.co.uk

Website: www.paulmagen.co.uk

The Knowledge

Although he recently moved to shared premises in St. Albans, when I first met Paul his workshop and shop, which he shared with another jeweller, was only a couple of doors down from BM favourite Adam Shener. Indeed, it was through Adam that Paul came to our attention. I had a look at Paul’s website, and being a cufflinks addict I couldn’t resist visiting him to find out more.

Paul provides a range of hand made off the shelf jewellery in silver and gold, and also takes on commissions. What makes both these ranges distinctive is the way he works the metal to achieve what he calls a textural and organic look.

The cufflink designs Paul showed me were in the main perfectly ordinary shapes - ovals, oblongs, circles etc. But to my mind, his house style, for want of a better term, adds a certain depth to the pieces. On a practical level it reflects the light, but more than that it also provides for a minimalist elegance. I like to be individual in my style, but I don’t aim to be controversial or in your face. Paul’s cufflinks balance that desire perfectly. I could have easily left with half a dozen pairs -had Westie not been with me I might well have done.

And what price individualism? Quite a bit less than one might think actually. The Sterling Silver links Paul showed me were between £55 and £65 a pair, which for limited edition, hand made, sterling silver is extremely good value I think.

Most of the off the shelf designs incorporate bolt fastenings. There are chain links available, and because Paul makes all his own kit I guess it wouldn’t be too difficult to get a pair made up, if you saw a design you liked.

Considering he’s a one man show there isn’t much Paul cannot do. There are his bespoke pieces, obviously, and the hand crafted off the shelf kit, but he’ll also do restoration and remodelling of a clients existing jewellery. This can be anything from wedding and engagement rings to inherited traditional pieces in need of a contemporary twist. Paul’s also able to source a large variety of precious and high quality semi-precious stones; and is willing to set your own stones in a design to your specifications.

Bespoke Commissions

At the end of the day it could seem quite a daunting business commissioning a bit of bespoke jewellery - not to mention expensive. Paul makes the process very easy both in his manner and the way he works. Simply tell him what you’re after, he does a few sketches and gets back to you with a probable cost. Even at this stage you’re not committed to anything. If you find it doesn’t meet your budget simply let him know and re-evaluate. When I met him we discussed a few designs I had in mind, and despite their impracticality he was keen to try and deliver what I was after.

On his website Paul says that he’s “happiest when dealing with customers on a one to one basis”, and having met him I could certainly understand that. An extremely easygoing and personable chap, he was as much interested in me as I was in him. This all makes for a very easy experience, with no heavy sales tactics.

Celebrity cliental
When Paul was based in the fashionable district of Notting Hill he had a number of commissions from local celebrities, including Daman Albarn, Ruby Wax, Matt Willis and Graham Norton. Given the creative house style that Paul’s developed this didn’t surprise me. But even for those of us considering off the shelf pieces, I thought there was more than sufficient individuality on offer.

Paul has subsequently moved his location to Catherine Street in St. Albans, and although that is a bit of a trek you can always order off the shelf pieces from his fully commercial website. My advice, if you like his house style or are contemplating a commission, is give him a call and organise a visit –it’s not that far, according to Google maps.

Whether I’m buying for others or for myself, I’ve always found it useful to have a couple of good jewellers in my back pocket, be they antique dealers or artisans. Paul Magen is one well worth keeping in mind I think.

Wool & Knitted Vintage Ties: Emporium, Greenwich

2009-03-17T13:19:00.014Z

I have something of a neckwear vibe happening at the moment, being obsessed by two distinct and opposite looks. First is the fatter, fuller tie with excessively large tie pin (something I wrote about here). The second is woollen and knitted ties, preferably on the thin/skinny side. This latter group is perfect for adding texture and depth to a look. It’s also wonderfully reminiscent of the 60s.

I’d forgotten I had these pictures, which I took on my last trip to Emporium in Greenwich. Jonathan has a fine collection of original 60’s skinny ties, and a few rare pieces. Of particular note was the tie pictured above by legendary 60’s Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter. There was also the rather nice brown and white spot Dior, which now hangs in my wardrobe, and periodically around my neck.

Rather popular the last couple of seasons they’re a staple of my wardrobe whatever the trend. They’re also a particularly suitable accessory to wear with jeans or chinos and a cotton jacket during the warmer seasons. Plenty of labels have them in their collections, as do the outfitters of Jermyn Street for whom they are staples. But, if you want the original article in some rather distinctive colours and weaves then Emporium’s collection might be the way to go. Selling at £15-£25 it’s also a cheaper means of experimenting if you’re new to the idea.

This is one that in retrospect I wish I’d bought. I’d pair it with a white shirt, one of Adam Shener’s suits and white linen handkerchief in the top pocket. You could even through proportions to the wind and wear it with a double breasted suit.
The two on the left and one on the far right are distinctive. I should have bought all of them.

Emporium:
330-332 Creek Road
Greenwich
London
SE10

Tel: 0208 305 1670

An Alternative Satchel: Canvass Army Surplus

2009-03-12T23:13:00.007Z

The leather satchel has become a fashion collection staple these days. What’s on offer has become progressively more expensive and over-styled, as labels try to provide something individual. Ultimately a satchel is a utilitarian accessory. And while there is a certain amount of pleasure to be gained from owning a well crafted, quality piece of leather luggage, I also like the idea of going down another route, with something a little different.

So why not try the Army surplus canvass satchel. I actually remember these being rather popular during my school days. I found these on an army surplus stall at the Portobello market (Notting Hill end) for a very tidy £8. The ones I found are labelled inside with a little crown and the initials FKF, which marks them out as Danish in origin –sadly not British. Still, that aside, of military construction they are hardy and well made. I rather like the idea of using this one for the daily commute to and from the office; the contradiction between the ultra smart suit and ruff and rugged satchel is a particularly appealing one. Contradiction can be quite an effective sartorial tool.

Of course you don’t have to concur with my choice, but the point remains. If everybody’s getting more and more extreme -in every sense- then striking an individual note may mean going right back to the basics –the really basic even.

Brooks Brothers, Part II: Testing the Waters, Shirting

2009-03-08T21:48:00.010Z

(A classic Brooks Brothers Button Down)

Prior to last week I'd known all about Brooks Brothers but I’d never actually purchased anything.

Well, last week they held a wine evening and promotional sale, and Westie and I decided to go along. It may seem like common sense, but a sale is a good opportunity to test an outlet for the first time, without incurring too much expense should things not work out.

If like me you occasionally find yourself sporting something not so much akin to a six pack as a family pack, you may think the world has gone skinny mad. We have skinny ties, skinny jeans (that appear to do unspeakable things to a chaps testicular area), slim fit, trim fit and the like. If you’re a feller of a proper manly bulk these things are a big no. Indeed, I increasingly find I have to be extremely careful when buying any clothing these days, particularly if it’s on spec from an online resource.

What started as a means for high-street retailers to provide customers with a fit more akin to bespoke or made to measure, slim fit has become an epidemic. Well a perfect antidote to this is the Brooks Brother standard fit range of shirts. Wonderfully voluminous there is nothing restrictive about them. They do several ranges of shirt, their standard (Red Label) and then a tailored more shaped fit (Purple Label). There is also a range designed by Thom Browne (a hugely overrated guy) which is ultra skinny, known as Black Fleece. They also have a range called Golden Fleece, which provides a luxury fit –whatever that is.

Now, I was ready to be unimpressed by Brooks. Whatever else they are, they’re a high street store. What’s more, in my considerable experience, the more up market the high street store the worse mannered and less friendly staff are. Another reason why my money goes to independent retailers. So I was prepared to be underwhelmed.

Actually I was pleasantly surprised on all counts. The staff were polite friendly and helpful. There were no noses in the air. Indeed, Westie and her mate Sara had pitched up a week earlier semi-tanked on the hunt for a pair of socks I was after. They raved about the treatment they received.

As to the shirt? That also impressed me. Mine was from their mid priced range, which I picked up for £28 with discounts. Normally retailing for £59, at that price I would probably still have bought it. The cotton is wonderfully soft; the cut generous; the collar high and it sits well. If I had any complaints it is that the sleeve length is just a bit too long and the space for the tie a little smaller than I’m used to. But in the round a reasonable first experience which would lead me to go back. There is plenty of other kit which caught my eye, and is for the most part reasonably priced, although I would probably shop more in sale time that prime season. If you find made to measure and bespoke too much trouble and too fussy; or you find names like Hackett and Ralph Lauren’s over styled, slim fit clothing OTT, then you should seriously consider Brooks Brothers.

And for you slim fit fellers here is a little something different that rather appealed. Part of the Thom Browne range is a button down, white collar and double cuff shirt. Just goes to show there is no such thing as an original idea. I was planning on having something similar made by Stephan Haroutunian, and thought myself very clever for thinking of it.

Notice Board: An Extraordinary Man

2009-03-04T09:21:00.002Z

In my last post I mentioned the author Bret Easton Ellis. While digging for links I found this interesting interview, which is certainly worth a look.

I am not an avid reader of fiction, preferring instead my history books, but of the few fiction writers I do enjoy, Easton Ellis comes top of the list, and ‘American Psycho’ would certainly be in my desert island books collection.

Three of Easton Ellis’ books have been turned into films, ‘American Psycho’, staring Christian Bale, and ‘Rules of Attraction’, staring that floppy haired tit from Dawson’s Creek and ‘Less than Zero’. In my view, neither ‘American Psycho’ nor ‘Rules of Attraction’ did the books justice and they are in no way a substitute for reading them.

If you know the name but not the man and his works, this is an interesting interview, which I thought worthy of a post on its own merits, as is Easton Ellis himself.

An extraordinary man.